Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

T-5 rebuilding help

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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:26 PM
  #1  
fixin87formula's Avatar
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From: Central Iowa
Car: 1987 Formula T-top
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
T-5 rebuilding help

I have an 87 formula with a T-5. Sometimes when shifting between gears it'll grind a bit. I am going to replace the clutch and figured since I had it out I would crack it apart and take a look at whats wrong. The problem is that I dont know what I am looking for. I have never rebuilt a manual tranny before. I'm figuring the synchros are bad, but what do I know. Anyway is there a service manual that will walk me through rebuilding one of these?

I have also been told that the early T-5 trannys are weak. If this is true where is the weak spot in this tranny and can it be fixed.
Thanks in advance
Bob
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 02:18 PM
  #2  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Call up Hanlon Motorsports and get the T5 service/rebuild manual. The T5 is fairly stragihforward to rebuild.

Look for teeth on synchros and engagement portions of the gears that aren't crisp and straight. Rounded off or mangled teeth indicated that the part should be replaced.

Pre '88 F-body T5s are weak, because they are NWC. The problem is the bearings aren't tapered roller bearings like the newer ones. I don't think you can make a non-WC T5 into a WC T5, but I'm not positive of that. Ask Bob at Hanlon. He'll know for sure.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 10:51 PM
  #3  
scooted45's Avatar
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From: Baltimore Md
Car: 86 sport coupe, 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI, 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T-5, T-5
Axle/Gears: drum posi 3.73, disc open 2.73
got a #?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:41 PM
  #4  
sofakingdom's Avatar
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Grinding between gears, especially if more than one gear does it, IS NOT the transmission. It's the clutch.

Just put a clutch in it, and be sure to do it right; get the throwout on the fork right, the fork on the pivot ball right, have the flywheel resurfaced, REPLACE THE PILOT BUSHING (which is probably what's making it grind in the first place), etc.

Leave the transmission alone. More likely, you'll create more trouble than you already have, by messing with it.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 03:47 PM
  #5  
TTOP350's Avatar
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
ford racing has a rebuild kit under PT# M-7000-A (yes its the same for GM) 255 bux I think you can get it cheaper if you look
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 04:26 PM
  #6  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Grinding in more than one gear is not necessarily caused only if there is a clutch problem. If you have more than one synchro that is bad you can get grinding in more than one gear. I see T5s all the time that ground 2nd and 3rd and there was nothing wrong with the clutch, rather the trans had been driven hard and both the 1/2 and 2/3 synchros were affected from constant powershifts. If the trans grinds going into every gear, then I tend to agree that the problem is in the bellhousing not the trans.

Rebuild kits from Hanlon are much cheaper than the Ford one, and contain the same parts, less one or two parts that you really don't need anyway. Price is about $175.

If you are used to rebuilding things that require precision (e.g. rearends, transmissions, engines) then rebuilding a T5 is straightforward. If you aren't used to taking precision measurements and just plan to tear it apart and slap it back together with some new stuff in it then either leave it alone or take it to a reputable shop. I agree that doing a T5 half @$$ will create more problems than it will solve. However, even a trans that is relatively in good shape can still benefit from a freshening as long as it is done properly. If the trans is out already then there's no better time.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #7  
Jackman5003's Avatar
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From: New Jersey
Car: 1984 S-15
Engine: 1988 Iroc-z 305 V8
Transmission: T-5 (5-speed)
i'm in the process of rebuilding my t-5 now. only thing is, preloading the bearings, how much should they have and how do i go about measuiring that? stick shims in until no endplay on the mainshaft and countershaft?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 03:14 AM
  #8  
Pat Hall's Avatar
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From: Roy,UT USA
You want to get the endplay as close to 0 tolerance as possible. Excessive endplay on the countergear is supposedly one of the leading causes of a T5 failing after a rebuild. You can measure endplay by standing the trans up vertically and using a dial indicator to check it while pushing up on the countergear.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:30 PM
  #9  
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Good thread. I'm in the same position - I've got a WC T-5 with 200,000 on it behind my 300hp 355 and I'm getting grinding into 3 and sometimes 2 when i shift at high rpm. Just as an aside too - the CLUTCH ISNT ALWAYS THE CAUSE OF GRINDING - my clutch has under 20,000 miles on it and I still have the grinding issue.
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