Uninstalling clutch pedal assembly in a 91
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Car: 1985 Camaro
Engine: 350 ci 4 bolt main .30 over forged fed mogul pistons
Transmission: T-5
Uninstalling clutch pedal assembly in a 91
OK, I found this 1991 z28 donor car for my project. The main problem is that it's outside and everytime I got out to work on it theres snow all over so I freeze. Today, our mission was to remove the pedal assembly (brake and clutch) the master cylinder and the slave along with all the other cltuch related junk. Now, we got the 2 bolts off the master, got the 2 lower ones for the pedals, now we're stuck. The assembly can't move cuz theres a hidden bolt and the master cant move cus theres these little braces that wrap around the bolts. Can someone please help me? Also, I'm putting this all in a non manual car because I'm installing the t5. I assume I'll have to cut holes for the pedals and such correct? Thanks in advance for any help!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
IIRC the pedals are held to the firewall by the brake booster nuts, and another one or 2 that go up to dash supports above it; and the master cyl is held only by the 2 nuts that go on the U-bolt thing. All of it is easily accessible from under the dash.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Car: 1985 Camaro
Engine: 350 ci 4 bolt main .30 over forged fed mogul pistons
Transmission: T-5
OK but in my car, there arent any of those booster lines er whatever... does that matter? There is a hole with foam in it for the master cyl and from the looks of it, the clutch and brake assembly just replaces the old bracket rite?
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Blaine WA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355/460hp
Transmission: glide\ford 9"
There should be 4 nuts to take off which go through to the booster studs. Booster needs to come forward enough to get the studs out of the holes. There is one bolt on the top and towards the rear of the bracket. The bracket with clutch provision will bolt inplace of the auto. There is a rod that goes from the pedal through bolt to the firewall where the clutch master rod goes through. You may or may not need to cut the hole for the clutch master to go through. There should be an outline of it stamped into the sound deadener. If you have all the parts off the doner car that should be all to it. I am doing a firewall mounted tilton clutch master right now and that gets to be a little more of a pain. I have had my pedal brackets in and out more than I would like to count.
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