When I push on the pedal it has about an inch of movement without pressure. When it does start to work you have to push it ALL the way to the floor for it to disingage. Even all the way down it feels like it's nowhere near enough clutch, and grinds when you put it in reverse or when your driving and put it in 5th.

I'm thinking it's the master cylinder. In my shop manual it says that the hydrulic clutch stuff is all a one piece unit, but autozone can only get the master cylinder.

It's not leaking bad at all, but i think it may be my problem. If you take off the little cover/seal thing on the INSIDE side of the firewall it's got some hydrulic fluid sitting under it. Enough to drip a little.

Any ideas as to why it's not disengaging right? How do i replace just the master cylinder?

 

Master cylinder is easy to replace in theory. Its just a pain in the *** with the brake booster. Go to your dealer and ask them for the entire hydraulic assembly for your vehicle. Then when they tell you thier outrageous price, ask to have the part # and buy it off gmpartsdirect.com for $102 (sorry I don't have the part # but that was what I paid for my T-56 hydraulics). It comes pre-bled and already with fluid through shipping.

First step is to get down underneatht he drivers dash and break off the clip on your clutch pedal holding the master cylinder on it. Next thier is 2 (1/2 or 13mm nuts, not sure) that hold the master cylinder on through a U bolt. Get the two nuts off and take a screw driver and hammer and lightly tap the ubolt out from inside the car, now remove the master cylinder reservoir from its mounting point inside the engine bay, go underneath the car and remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bellhousing.

Now comes the fun part, reach around your brake booster to remove the u-bolt and try to pull the master cylinder out from that little cramped area, little hands go a long way here.

Now in the legendary words of the Haynes Manual "Installation is reverse of removal."

You will need a brake pedal C-clip to hold the new master cylinder in place when putting the new one on. Also, this is very important:

DO NOT PUSH THE CLUTCH PEDAL IN WHILE THE SLAVE IS DANGLING UNDERNEATH THE CAR AFTER YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE MASTER CYLINDER, THE SLAVE CYLINDER WILL EXPLODE.

Have fun .

 

I know how to replace the whole system, I converted it over to a 5-speed about 2 weeks ago, but i just started driving it a round the last few days.

Anyways, how do you put in just a new master cylinder? Does the hydrulic hose just unscrew? How do I bleed it? Autozone has just the mastercylinder for 60 bucks.

I think i may have screwed up the adjustment and maybe the mastercylinder when i was putting it in, cause I did push on the pedal while the slave cylinder was just sitting there. I didn't push it in at all but I did put quite a bit of pressure on it. Whoops. I was all mad thinking i got ripped off from the guy who sold it to me, but then i pushed in on the little steel bar from the slave cylinder and had my brother push it and it worked. Maybe I screwed it up??? anyways. Gotta get it fixed, anyone have the part number?

 

Near the master cylinder on the hose, there is a roll pin you punch out to remove the hose to put a new master cylinder in, put the roll pin back in when the new cylinder is on. IMO, you better off getting a whole new setup from gm, you never know if that slave is bad also.

 

Went to the dealer and they gave me part # 12527718. They said it was the master cylinder and actuator.
Gmpartsdirect is saying it's the mastercylinder, and rod. I'm not seeing a slave cylinder anywhere. Is this the right part?

Autozone has the master cylinder in stock, and it's 60 bucks, the only thing I'm finding on gmdirect is 100+20 shipping. Doesn't say if it has a slave cylinder though.

 

That doesn't sound like the whole assembly, it may be possible gm doesn't sell the t-5's complete, *SHRUG*. if anything go with the autozone, and punch the roll pin out and install the new master cylinder.

 

yep, thats what I'm going to have to do, oh well. Hope my slave cylinder isn't bad though...be hitting ebay, and junkyards. *sigh*
Thanks

 

Advance has them for $45. You may have to order the part in some cities though.

 

advance has master cylinders or slave cylinders???

 

I am installing a new Slave Cylinder, does anyone know a good way to remove the pin in the cylinder that holds the hydraulic line to it? Is there a specific tool to remove these types of pins? Thanks.

 

I used a small drift punch or even a small nail. Insert it in the hole and tap it out with a small hammer.

 

How do you bleed the hyd clutch? I'm curious to see how this is solved. I may be in the exact same boat. I just did a t-5 conversion and I think I may have gotten air in the system. I haven't tried it yet though so I got my fingers crossed. I'll be firing it up in the morning.