Super T10 4 speed, newly rebuilt, not yet installed:

Spent the better part of my day today building a shifter reciever for the trans and a new shifter handle. Started testing it out for stiffness and such, basically playing around shifting through the gears. I know the pattern of 4 speeds and I tried getting it into reverse but no matter what I do I can't find it. Every gear shifts a little rough, no big deal since it has no fluid and its not installed or been used since the rebuild. Heck I even turn the input shaft a bit to help it, no dice (although the output shaft spins well, so its not an internal problem).

I know R is over and up compared to 1st, but I've literally spent 2 hours tooling around with this thing to no avail. Could it be my shifting mechanism? Anyone have any ideas?

Pattern is like this:

 

It could be binding on somthing under the car or you just dont have the levers adjusted correctly. I'd get the car up in the air and un hook all the rods and push the levers back and fourth one at a time just to see. If you have one lever stuck sligtly in a certain gear it will not let the transmission into reverse. I know on some early model 3 and 4 speeds there was a reverse lock out but I havent seen one still intact since I pulled the muncie out of my malibu. You can guess which peice I "forgot" to install.

 

No binding from what I can tell, since the trans isn't even in the car yet I checked it a few mins ago. Whats this lockout you speak of? This could be my problem, what does it look like and how would I go about disabling it?

 

reverse lockout, doesnt allow the shifter to be shifted into reverse unless the collar on the shifter is pulled up, its so that it wouldnt be accidently shifted into reverse while moving foward

 

How do I disable it? I don't have a factory shifter reciever or shift handle, just some homemade stuff. I tried moving the reverse arm and linkage, works fine but I can't figureout how to get the shifter to do so. If I can't figure this out soon I don't know what I'll do, seeing as I have to back the car out of the garage for its initial run.

 

reverse arm? i take it that is what connects to the collar, what has to be done is that reverse linkage has to be moved from its neutral position,then try shifting the trans into reverse, see if that makes any diff

 

Tried it, nothing,

The linkage moves quite easily, you can hear every gear 'clunk', reverse 'clunks' as well and the output shaft will spin in the opposite direction, so the gear will engage. It feels like the shifter 'wants' to go into reverse, but then slips and goes into 1st.

 

i wasnt very specific enough on my last post so here is another thing to try, hold the reverse linkage out of its neutral spot, dont let it go back, then while still holding it there, try to shift the shifter into reverse

 

Ok just tried it, no dice. .

I'm cursed.

 

thats strange, maybe it needs to be in the car first and have oil in it, but would be a waste of time to install it and find out it wont work, sorry i couldnt help

 

Ok then, do you have a pic of this home made setup?

If you can manualy move the trans into reverse we know it is not the problem an your shifter or adjustment is

Read this it may help.

http://www.hurstgo.com/pdf/alignment.pdf

 

Its a stock 1978 shifting linkage setup with a homemade shifter handle and reciever (part that slides into the shifting likage part). I think I will end up taking it all apart today to see if its binding somewhere, since it feels kinda like it wants to move but something isn't letting it.

I've heard that some sort of cable can break in the old 4 speeds like mine causeing 1st and Reverse to become easily confused. Know anything about this?

 

It seems to pull on R when in 3rd, I can see the linkage pull back a tiny bit when I push a bit.

I've tried all afternoon taking off the linkages and trying to get it to shift, no luck whatsoever.

 

Now if you run into too much hassle I'll gladly take it off your hands.

Which rods ya using? All aftermarket shifters come with adjustable rods 3/8th threaded on one end. You might just have to break down and buy a new shifter, I know checker stocks them $140 or so US but dont have a clue what parts sources you have up north. It might be worth the effort just to pick one up to see how its supposed to work then return it. As far as the 3rd reverse issue it does kinda sound like either your rods are backwards or the actual shifter is FUB holding 3/4 lever and not allowing reverse to line up. Its quite possible the factory pin or busings are blasted also.

I'd highly suggest you buy another shifter.

 

LOL, I've had TONS of offers on it, everyone seems to want one nowadays. Probably will sell it sometime next summer if I switch over to a TH350.

Its just a totally stock shift lever/rod setup, not very loose at all. I'm thinking I should just pull it off totally and get it rebuilt (the shifter), or try to find where its binding. Unless I'm totally inept and R is in another location, which would **** me off to a slight degree.

 

Well I wouldent give up just yet.
This is a muncie but the linkage is very close.

You might also check out the MB where this pic is from.
http://www.nastyz28.com

 

whats the big deal with the t-10's anyways?

 

Isnt one really. I guess people like the idea of a "Super T10" just like "World Class T5" or "M22 Rock Crusher". The T-10 is just one of the better 4 speeds produced, some say better then the muncie some say not but its agreed they are both worlds away from any saginaw.

 

Super T10 is iron cased from the 70's, extremely strong and small. Tons of aftermarket, lotsa gearing ratios to choose from and don't fetch as much compared to a Muncie while being stronger IMO. Used a lot NASCAR and stuff.

A normal T10 is aluminum and lighter duty, mostly made in the early 60's and weaker than a Muncie.

Now, if I only knew about shifters I'd be set.

 

I FOUND IT!!!

Took the shifter apart, fiddled around with it, put it back together and voila! Working.

Also a huge bonus, while taking it apart I noticed something on the side of the shifter mechanism,......

HURST SUPER COMPETITION!!!!!!

All along I thought it was a stock shifter.

I'm so happy right now.

 

That could be the "stock shifter".... what did this trans come out of?

 

From what I hear, its from a late 70's Camaro with the 262 and 2.56 (right?) rear. The guy I bought it from had it in his 68 Camaro, with both a 383 and a 509 during a 10 year span. I found out when I brought it to the shop its got aftermarket or replacement gears (maker unknown) cuz they're brand new, not a single chip or anything to be found (this is what I'm told, as per say of the guy who rebuilt it).

Maybe its stock, maybe not, as for right now I'm still glowing with happyness.

 

It wouldn't have been stock for anything past '74, but the first gen Camaros, like that '68, did come with Hurst shifters.

 

Didn't then 1st gens use the Muncie family? I know the aluminum cased T10's were used in the early 70's but I'm pretty sure (not 100%, so I can easily be wrong) that the iron ones like mine were used 'till 79.

 

Usually the shifters are jacked and the bushings are wiped not allowing you in a gear or two, Ive been there MANY MANY TIMES. Now is the fun part, adjusting the throw and making sure nothing binds or hangs in 2 gears at one time.

Yes, the 1st gens that Ive seen driven and or worked on all came with Hurst shifters all manual transmissions, even pathetic I-6, non syncronised saginaw 3 speed ones had the hurst shifters. Ive got one from a 69 3 speed that I have used off and on in my truck, to bad I had to hack the original shaft off to adapt it to my truck. It would have fit my 66 malibu perfect if I was willing to take 2 shifters apart to make one.

Keep us informed as the project rolls on.