rear bearings and disc
rear bearings and disc
need to replace a rear wheel bearing on a 82 t/a posi with disc brakes ... the parts store says it requires a inner and a outer ... ive never seen or heard of that before ... what problems might i run into on this inner bearing ... excluding the rear end bearings ... i know i got to pull the axle and ????? thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yeah, no "inner wheel bearing".... that's a weird one.... the axle bearing is a R1559TV IIRC, can't remember the seal number, but it's very common and easy to obtain.
Easiest way to change them is to use a 6' piece of about ¾" water pipe, stick it through and bnk them out from the other side; re-install the seal with a block of wood laid flat on it, and one good whap with your BFH, DO NOT try to tap the seal in around its edge, it will leak every time.
Make certain that the axle is good. The place on it where the bearing rides should be smooth and free of pitting etc. If the axle is damaged, new bearings won't do any good, because the axle itself is the inner race of the bearing.
Easiest way to change them is to use a 6' piece of about ¾" water pipe, stick it through and bnk them out from the other side; re-install the seal with a block of wood laid flat on it, and one good whap with your BFH, DO NOT try to tap the seal in around its edge, it will leak every time.
Make certain that the axle is good. The place on it where the bearing rides should be smooth and free of pitting etc. If the axle is damaged, new bearings won't do any good, because the axle itself is the inner race of the bearing.
If you're not removing the differential, you can rent a bearing puller and slide hammer from AutoZone. Just did this on mine last month. The puller slides in from the axle tube end, locks onto the bearing, and you thread the slide hammer onto it. A few good whacks and out it comes, seal and all.
Stick with name brand seal and bearing parts, Timken or Federal-Mogul. Leave the Chinese crap for someone else.
Check your axles for wear/damage at the seal and bearing interface points. If they're grooved, galled, or otherwise not smooth you need replacements. Moser gets $250 or whatever for a brand new pair in whatever spline count you need.
Stick with name brand seal and bearing parts, Timken or Federal-Mogul. Leave the Chinese crap for someone else.
Check your axles for wear/damage at the seal and bearing interface points. If they're grooved, galled, or otherwise not smooth you need replacements. Moser gets $250 or whatever for a brand new pair in whatever spline count you need.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You don't have to remove the differential to use the water pipe method. Once the axles and therefore the cross shaft are out (as they would of course have to be regardless) the water pipe slides right in through the tubes, with the differential still in place.
I find it far faster and easier than a slide hammer... not that a slide hammer is hard or anything, the other is just really really fast and easy. I bet I can have both sides out with a pipe before somebody else could even get a slide hammer set up and ready on the first side.
I find it far faster and easier than a slide hammer... not that a slide hammer is hard or anything, the other is just really really fast and easy. I bet I can have both sides out with a pipe before somebody else could even get a slide hammer set up and ready on the first side.
Having a hard time visualizing this...w/ most diffs still in, you have spider gears in the way. Even w/ my Torsen, there's no way you could slide a pipe in one axle tube and get past it to access the other axle tube. Did I miss something?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Maybe so....
Think about a rear. The axles slide in. All the way in, from each side to the middle, such that they hit the cross shaft when they reach their destination. They slide through the side gears along the way. The spider gears are on either end of the cross shaft, and so aren't in the way of the axles making it all the way from the ends of the housing to the center. Axles are about 1" in diameter.
Now remove the axles and cross shaft.
Anything that's the diameter of an axle, or smaller, will go right through, from one end to the other.
I've done it that way so many times on so many rears in so many different kinds of cars and trucks over the years that I've lost count.
Think about a rear. The axles slide in. All the way in, from each side to the middle, such that they hit the cross shaft when they reach their destination. They slide through the side gears along the way. The spider gears are on either end of the cross shaft, and so aren't in the way of the axles making it all the way from the ends of the housing to the center. Axles are about 1" in diameter.
Now remove the axles and cross shaft.
Anything that's the diameter of an axle, or smaller, will go right through, from one end to the other.
I've done it that way so many times on so many rears in so many different kinds of cars and trucks over the years that I've lost count.
OK, gotcha. The pipe would have to be smaller diameter than the axles, otherwise you wouldn't get the pipe angled over to rest against the bearing. Brain fart.
I'd still be willing to race ya on this process. I got pretty quick about the slide hammer and bearing puller procedure...thread the puller onto the slide hammer, insert the whole assembled contraption into place, and out comes the bearing and seal.
I'd still be willing to race ya on this process. I got pretty quick about the slide hammer and bearing puller procedure...thread the puller onto the slide hammer, insert the whole assembled contraption into place, and out comes the bearing and seal.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Slide pipe in (hehe), hit with hammer; one bonk usually gets it; leave pipe laying there in the tubes; walk to other side, pick up other end of pipe; hit with hammer again. Done. In not much more time than it took to read that.
I bet I could have both axles and bearings out that way, before you could even get a slide hammer assembled and adjusted to fit, on the first side. After all, I'm pretty good with my pipe.
I bet I could have both axles and bearings out that way, before you could even get a slide hammer assembled and adjusted to fit, on the first side. After all, I'm pretty good with my pipe.
Well I still dont know what they were talking about{2bearings}but.... I found out that there is a bearing replacement that moves the location of the bearing to change where the axle rides on it. which keeps me from having to replace axle not that I need a new 1. its about 1 1/4" wide with seal alreadt installed in it. the bearing is set inside of it on the outer part of the 1 1/4" race. has anyone used 1 of these before? are they any good or am I waisting my time? SKFpart #R1563 it says made in USA
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