Well now that the 355 is set in and being hooked up I would like to solve a problem thats been on the back burner for a bit. When i bought this car the TCC functioned fine, i swapped to edel carb and it worked fine, i swapped to HEI and it stopped, so i ran a switch. now i have 4 or 5 wires that are on the car and used to go to the dist/coil setup but arent doing anything now, i am going to assume that one of them needs a tach signal to may the tcc work again, i dont know which wire. ( i am assumeing it needs tach signal) Any thoughts?

 

The guys who use this forum seem to be partial to Pro Built. But I've fount that Bowtie overdrives offers some useful kits that are good for swaps, and their site has some good info too
http://www.tvmadeez.com/pressure_test/index.html

I bought a couple of the kits just recently to get my TCC working right after my carb swap.

I'll be putting those in this week I hope, I'm looking forward to finally having my TCC working automatically instead of manually.

 

What kits, the TVmadeEZ? That has nothing to do with the TCC operation.

You had HEI to begin with. Do you mean you swapped to a non-CCC distributor? The thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=230910 has just about everything you'd never want to know about making the TCC work without a computer.

 

If you do some looking around the site and find the online catalog for that website, you'll see that they DO indeed have kits for making TCC lockup function without a computer.

 

In addition to that, it's a good site to look at for a thorough explanation to hows and whys of TV, and TCC operation.
Instead of just having an online catalog, they explain how their product works and why it's a good idea to have a system that operates that way.
For example, why not to have a manual TCC lockup: If you brake hard and lock up your wheels, it'll kill your engine and it won't restart.
The result... loss of power steering.

 

Bowtie Overdrives does, yes. I just saw the TVmadeEZ link and thought he was hoping that would make his TCC work too.

 

While that may be more true on vehicles which did not originally come qith a 700R4, it's not usually true on a thirdgen. The most popular (and probably easiest) way to put a manual switch on a thirdgen is to connect a switch between pins A and F on the ALDL. This grounds the TCC and causes it to lock. The TCC still receives +12v through the factory brake switch, so applying the brakes causes the TCC to unlock.

 

That's good to know.
I'm just getting familiar with my 700R4.
I did a TBI to carb swap last year and there wasn't much data in the "Swapping EFI to Carb" tech article about tranny related issues, and I made the mistake of assuming that the 700R4 was similar to the TH350.
And now I'm hoping I haven't wrecked the thing.

Doubtless, just like everything else I work on that I'm unfamiliar with, I'll end up doing a bunch of unnessecary work and wasting a bunch of money before I finally get it right.

I learned some pretty good basic stuff off that Bowtie site though.
I think that the "carb swap" article should contain links to that site and others to help guys stay out of trouble.

 

manually switching the TCC lockup gets to be a pain in the butt though.

 

Apeiron: Aye i only consider HEI the coil in cap type, I had the remote coil (optispark?). I have been considering the TCI kit but if i can hook a wire back up and get the factory ecm to handle it again that would be better, when i didnt want it to lockup i just drove in D instead of OD. I currently have it on a switch to pins A and F on the diag connector, but the light on the switch dont work cause i guess crossing A and F makes a short of some kind as it locks up the converter and i havent felt like wiring in a relay just to make the light come on. (tried using a dif 12v source other than the pin and it popped fuses on the wire hence makes a short?) but the tcc locks up as it should when i flip the switch.