i'm a little ignorant to some of this stuff, so can someone fill me in on the benefits or need to "up" the stall on my converter? it's on a 700R4, trans is out, block is staying as is, but heads are getting re-worked. i might be bumping up the cam, too, not sure yet. anyhow, i have a 3:23 posi rear end. i'm basically working on some "bolt-on" upgrades, like headers, cat-back, etc., so gonna be adding a little more hp to it. i don't run the car at the track, it's pretty much a daily driver, but i like to make an occasional "kill" on the street, too. also not looking to getting to the point of having to change the prom, either. btw, trans is stock, other than a 'vette servo... thanks.

KAM

 

The higher stall converter will start you out much closer to your peak tq if you choose it right.

The benifit to this is this: Lets say you get some heads and a larger cam like you're saying, and now you don't get into your power until 3300 rpm. Instead of still starting off at 1600 rpm like you would with the stock stall and bogging horribly, you can get a 3400 stall converter and start where you need to be.

Hope that makes sense

 

An engine has an rpm range where it is most efficient. The same holds true for a torque converter. Thats why when you move the engine powerband up in the rpm range you also want to adjust the torque converter accordingly.

 

these guys are sorta right. its not about starting at this point or that point though. u want your converter to stall around your peak torque rpm. u have to ask what does a stall converter do. simple it multipies torque, when it reaches its max stall speed thats when it multiplies torque the greatest. converters have whats called a stall torque ratio(str) its the amount of times the converter multiplies the engines torque. the more str the tighter the converter will feel. example your car makes 100ft lbs of torque at 1500rpm at the flywheel, if your converter stalls at 1500 rpm with a 2.0 str it will transmitt 200ft lbs to the trans. so even if your stall speed stayed the same and u went to a 3.0 str u would make more power 300 ft lbs. match your converetr to your setup, and ask around what brands other people are using and ride in other peoples car who have them.

 

A lot of typing for nothing. It was explained more than adequately above. If you engine doesnt make good power until 3000 then thats where it needs to be. or 2500 or whatever your magic number is. The smaller diamater torque converter the better, for the most part.

 

I was also thinking converter for next year. I am guessing I am going to need very sticky tires for next year? I dont see how I could launch at 2800 rpm and get traction.


Also, would a convertor help from a roll?

 

I think it depends on what rpm you're rolling at. I can let you know for sure in 409 miles, I gotta finish breaking my gears in first

 

yeah, my 350 l98 with 2800 stall has bad traction on street, but with same tires on sticky track, I can launch sick. From a roll, hell yes. the power is there. downshift to drive and hit it, 2800rpm later and your moving. It feels great. For the street it is not too much, especially if your planning on bigger cam and engine mods. I talked to edge converters (Where I got mine.) and they set me up with a good converter. I wanted 2600, but they recommended 2800 for future mods. They gave me a great product, but now I have trouble with traction when trying to hit the gas hard. peak torque for me is at 3200 rpm or so, stock L98 with headers/exhaust. Runs great. You will love it. See sig. converter helped ALOT.

 

I can get decent traction if I just punch it from a dig. If I were to get a 2800 convertor, could I just launch the same as I do now on the street and not stall it up and get the same traction?



Just wondering, if I were to get a convertor id get some drag radials.


Holy crap, I didn't know they were this expensive!

Vigilante 9.5" Single Disk Lock-up Torque Converter, 200R4, 700R4/4L60E, 4L80E $734.50

 

My Edge custom configured stall convertor was 554 shipped to my door. Very nice.

With my car stock as I bought it, new tires and all, traction was still hard to get when punched from dig/idle. Now with 2800 stall, your idling and then punch it, it goes up to 2800 rpm, locks and instant slideways action! With sick tires and suspension, you may be able to launch same as now, depending on whats done to your motor.

I break stall it to about 2500 rpm and let the brake out. I let it get moving alittle before punching it, to keep the tires from breaking loose. You can feel them starting to tear loose sometimes and have to back pedal it alittle. Sorta walking it into full power. This is only with street tires that are needing replaced. With drag radials, when hot, it should hook well on street. It probly will still roast them if punched from idle/dig and under full throttle, but not as much as street tires. My street tires have wear rating of 180 so they are soft and hook/handle great. Drag radials are like 60-100 or something like that.

 

My 3000 has helped out alot from a roll. It just gets right into the meat of the powerband now. Especially with my crappy 2.73 gears

 

we all have our opinions and i thought some would like a more indepth look at what was happening. theres alot more to know when choosing a converter then just get one that stalls at 3k.

 

There is an entire other world of the converter. There is a lot for anyone to learn, and I'll admit me too. But the question was why should Iget a higher stall? Where the info is great, sometimes too much can confuse someone, especially a beginner.