dana or any auto gurus!!!!!!
probuilt or any auto gurus!!!!!!
ok....i need some info on the 7004r...i've been mostly a manual guy but i am buying a 84z28 with a auto
the guy took out the comp and added a shift kit in the trans....as far as i know the trans needs a lock up switch like the one from painless or bowtie overdrive?....is this correct??? ....what happens if i dont install something like this?....
it shifts nice and smooth and chrips into 2nd really nice..., he claims it was rebuilt at the same time as the motor was...
cooler:....whats the best way to hook up a tranny cooler ?.....still use the radiator mounted cooler in addition to the aftermarket one??...
converter:....whats a good stall i could use on a mild motor with a possible ee268 equivelent cam and vortec head swap?...
anything i should add to the trans besides the shift kit that has been installed?
pan....is the extra capacity tranny pan worth the extra cash?..
good idea to install a tranny temp guage?
what is a good aftermarket shifter that retains the stock console?
and can i use a ls1 aluminum driveshaft?
the guy took out the comp and added a shift kit in the trans....as far as i know the trans needs a lock up switch like the one from painless or bowtie overdrive?....is this correct??? ....what happens if i dont install something like this?....
it shifts nice and smooth and chrips into 2nd really nice..., he claims it was rebuilt at the same time as the motor was...
cooler:....whats the best way to hook up a tranny cooler ?.....still use the radiator mounted cooler in addition to the aftermarket one??...
converter:....whats a good stall i could use on a mild motor with a possible ee268 equivelent cam and vortec head swap?...
anything i should add to the trans besides the shift kit that has been installed?
pan....is the extra capacity tranny pan worth the extra cash?..
good idea to install a tranny temp guage?
what is a good aftermarket shifter that retains the stock console?
and can i use a ls1 aluminum driveshaft?
Last edited by black84z28-4spd; Sep 19, 2004 at 07:23 PM.
the lock up should be connected.it will allow the flywheel and turbine shaft to be locked together 100 percent without the losses in coupling efficiency due when the convertor clutch is not applied.if you go non lockup you must modify the transmission lube circuit in the pump or you can burn up the planetary gears due to lack of lube.this is because cooler flow is greatly reduced when unlocked.this is why lock up should be initiated under no load cruising conditions,.select a kit according to when you want the lock up.mainly under hi vaccum,low throttle angle,and while in fourth gear.
If you use the GM vacuum switch, it will lock & unlock automaticly, based on vacuum conditions. When cruising at light throttle it will lock, & when you let off the throttle or go to WOT, it will unlock. The cost on this is about $40.00 - $50.00. Use an external cooler instead of the deep pan.
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