Long tubes+unprotected slave=179 bucks
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
Long tubes+unprotected slave=179 bucks
i have a centerforce DF clutch set, and when i start the motor when its cold the clutch works fine...but when everyhitng is nice and warm...or hot the clutch goes away...like completly wont work....i know its all assembled correctly becasue it works when its all cold...
i drove it home yesterday after i let it get all nice and chilly and sitting at a light i start seeing all this smoke...i get home and look under the car and theres fluid leaking from right under the accuator for the clutch fork....i have long tube headers and there right below the accuator and the oil drips on them and smokes like im pouring oil on the primaries....
i opend the resevoir and the fluid was overfilled and was quite warm...
im going to replace the entire slave because its 15 years old and well its 15 years old....i tried to put that peice on the bellhousing that covers the accuator but it wouldnt fir with the headers....what should i use so this doesnt happen again?
i drove it home yesterday after i let it get all nice and chilly and sitting at a light i start seeing all this smoke...i get home and look under the car and theres fluid leaking from right under the accuator for the clutch fork....i have long tube headers and there right below the accuator and the oil drips on them and smokes like im pouring oil on the primaries....
i opend the resevoir and the fluid was overfilled and was quite warm...
im going to replace the entire slave because its 15 years old and well its 15 years old....i tried to put that peice on the bellhousing that covers the accuator but it wouldnt fir with the headers....what should i use so this doesnt happen again?
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From: Carson, CA
Car: '88 GTA, 90 Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI, fed growth hormones
Transmission: 700r4 4u2?
Axle/Gears: 9bolt
You need to find something that is a good thermal protector for the slave cylinder. There are companys that produce spark plug protectors that are thermal wraps, that I used to slip over my slave cylinder for exactly that reason. I can't remember the name of the company, but there are quite a few. If you don't get some kind of thermal boundary in there, your new slave will do the same thing. I hope this helped.
Troy
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Troy
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From: Las Vegas
Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: Slushbox
Axle/Gears: 3.27
i had the same problem but i use thermotech(header wrap)on the down tube closest to the slave cyl.......big difference i also used the castrol synthetic brake fluid.........
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
Originally posted by 92droptopws6
i had the same problem but i use thermotech(header wrap)on the down tube closest to the slave cyl.......big difference i also used the castrol synthetic brake fluid.........
i had the same problem but i use thermotech(header wrap)on the down tube closest to the slave cyl.......big difference i also used the castrol synthetic brake fluid.........
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Your clutch problem is caused by the fluid boiling. When it boils is creates vapor pockets, which displace the fluid. That's why it looks overfilled (I bet if you let it cool down it will be down to normal levels or maybe low.) These pockets are also compressible...the fluid is not. That makes the hydros spongy or unresponsive. Have you ever flushed the clutch hydros out? Brake fluid (which is what most people use for hydro clutches) will absorb moisture over the years which MAJORLY lowers the boiling point of the fluid. Since it's leaking, you might as well just change the slave, but in the future, keeping the fluid changed every couple years can help prevent this problem, but like everyone else said....a thermal barrier will help IMMENSELY.
Edit: You can use the LT1 hydraulics...they'll bolt right up. The pressure line is braided stainless, and a bit longer so you can route it away from the headers. You can get the whole assembly (master, slave, and reservoir) new from GM full of fluid and pre-bled for just a little over $100.
Edit: You can use the LT1 hydraulics...they'll bolt right up. The pressure line is braided stainless, and a bit longer so you can route it away from the headers. You can get the whole assembly (master, slave, and reservoir) new from GM full of fluid and pre-bled for just a little over $100.
Last edited by TheGreatJ; Oct 1, 2004 at 08:46 PM.
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
Hey guys not to change the subject or highjack this post, but I thought you couldn;t unse longtubes with a stick car?? does any1 have any pics? thanks
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From: new york
Car: soon
Engine: dont know yet
Transmission: dont know yet
Originally posted by 89formula#1
Hey guys not to change the subject or highjack this post, but I thought you couldn;t unse longtubes with a stick car?? does any1 have any pics? thanks
Hey guys not to change the subject or highjack this post, but I thought you couldn;t unse longtubes with a stick car?? does any1 have any pics? thanks
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From: Naples Tx
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 350 bored 60 w/ vortech heads,crane cam,edelbrock intake & carb,hedman headers
Transmission: beefy th350
lt's
the only ones I could buy for my 82 4 -speed Z were hooker super comps. Hedman and everyone else said they didn't make them
Steve
Steve
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
Re: lt's
Originally posted by TexasSteve
the only ones I could buy for my 82 4 -speed Z were hooker super comps. Hedman and everyone else said they didn't make them
Steve
the only ones I could buy for my 82 4 -speed Z were hooker super comps. Hedman and everyone else said they didn't make them
Steve
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From: nebraska
Car: 90 RS, 83 z28, 85 ranger
Engine: none, 350, 2.8
Transmission: none, t-5, 5-speed
Re: Re: lt's
Originally posted by f-crazy
thats becasue you have mechanical clutch linkage...84 IIRC started with hydrualic linkage
thats becasue you have mechanical clutch linkage...84 IIRC started with hydrualic linkage
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
no no i mean that most companies dont make long tubes for F-bodies with mechanical linkage...there just isnt enough room...
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by f-crazy
no no i mean that most companies dont make long tubes for F-bodies with mechanical linkage...there just isnt enough room...
no no i mean that most companies dont make long tubes for F-bodies with mechanical linkage...there just isnt enough room...
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,521
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by scubas_90rs
so what you are saying is there might be a possibility that they might work and they might not.
so what you are saying is there might be a possibility that they might work and they might not.
Example: Edelbrock & Hooker both make emissions legal headers for my 87. Edelbrocks work with the mechanical linkage from a 78-81, Hookers don't. Wouldn't have cost Hooker anything more to make it work; they just didn't test it, and the O2 sensor is totally in the way. Otherwise, things are cool.
So on an 82-83, you're on your own.
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From: nebraska
Car: 90 RS, 83 z28, 85 ranger
Engine: none, 350, 2.8
Transmission: none, t-5, 5-speed
ok thanks. i will try to see if I can get something to work this winter when it is parked. If they work I will let you all know.
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