it says that c clip eliminators aren't required, but highly recommended with the richmond mini spool...i'm wondering, what exactly do cclips do, and do I need them???

 

the c-clips hold your axles in... so i guess you need them

 

thats not the question...they make c clip eliminator kits that are made for guys running spools in there rearend...on full spool setups, c clips eliminators are required, but they are just recommended on the mini spool setups...my question is, do I need to get the c clip eliminators or can I just leave the stock c clips in there???

 

if it was me id buy the eliminators... the stock axles are puny and it one breaks, that eliminator will hold the axle in and save you some bodywork

 

Only problem with C-clip eliminators is they tend to have really short seal life when driven on the street. Buddy has this problem with his 66 Chevelle. He's getting very good as pulling the rear end apart replacing outer seals The C-clip is a very poor design form GM, Ford definately took the prize with the 9" design there.

 

The fact of the matter is that c-clip eliminators are a band aide fix to allow you to legally race a car with a c-clip rear instead of upgrading the rear or replacing it with a rear that uses bolt in axels.

The seals don't last very long, especially if you drive the car on the street. The bearings are also usually smaller than the factory bearings they replace, making them less strong.

If you want to do it right and eliminate the c-clips get Ford 9" style housing ends welded on to your rear. That'll eliminate the c-clips, give you good seals and bearings, and make everyhting a lot stronger.

Without getting rid of the c-clips I can't see how a mini spool would work. There isn't any spline at the end of the axel shaft, and even if there was it wouldn't be enough to allow the asembly to be strong enough to survive. The c-clips stick out past the diamter of the axel shaft, so it isn't like the spool is going to slide over top of them.

BTW, if you're planning on spooling the 7.5" rear I wouldn't recommend it. The axels are at best 28 spline, and the car is heavy. Unless it's a track only car the odds that you'll break the rear are very high.

 

get a 9 bolt, no c clips

 

well a 9" is outta the question...if I shouldn't get a spool, what should I do, just get like a full auburn posi unit or what???

 

That would be your best bet

 

okay i'll do that then....all i need is the auburn posi unit and new gears to make it all work right?/

 

i shouldn't have to worry about breaking the posi unit right??? the gears will break before the unit will am I right??

 

Trust me, I ran the same factory auburn style posi in the 4 rear ends I gernaded with my small motor, you will shred the pinion and/or ring gear to peices before the auburn will fail.

 

Yes, I would definately recommend an Auburn posi. They are fairly cheap (like $375 from Randy's Ring and Pinion). The thing to watch out for is axel spline count. Your rear has 26-spline axels (weak). You could upgrade to 28-spline shafts from a later model rear (still fairly weak, but the best you can do in a 7.5" 10-bolt). The 28s started coming out around '89. You could get a set from a junkyard fairly cheaply, just make sure the bearing surfaces are good. Or they are about $250 new from Moser.

A TA girdle will keep the ring and pinion alive a lot longer. They are about $160 with carrier cap studs included. I run one on every vehicle in have that uses an open back rear.