Ok, i'm ditching my 10 bolt this weekend for a disc posi BW rear. I just wanted to know if there was anything special I should know about installing it besides putting the things i take off my current rear back on in the same place?

Mostly, I want to know about the proportioning valve i have got with it, some guides on installing rears dont mention getting one, some do, since this is all new to me, i'm not sure if it's necessary or just for additional tuning of the brakes. Yea, that sounds really stupid. Anyways, i'll update this thread as i'm removing my rear and putting the new one in in case anyone else is going this route, Since most guides talk about putting in 12 bolt mosers or going with LS1 disc brakes.

 

It is a straight R&R if you have the same brakes that are on the 9 bolt on your current 10 bolt (e.g. rear discs with iron calipers since that is what most 9 bolts have). If you are also going from drum to rear discs then you'll have a little more work to do but it is not that bad. All you'll need is the PV and e-brake cables assuming everything else is on the rear (like brake hoses, etc.). I did the same swap a few years ago, it is pretty simple.

 

I got the PV and emergency brakes. it is a drum to disc conversion too.

Just wondering where i mount the PV to. I dont have anything to really compare agianst since i've never seen the inside of a thirdgen with disc brakes.

 

It'll replace your current PV that is below the master cylinder.

 

oh, ok. That's a "duh" question.
thanks.

 

It's ok. Happens to the best of us. Since it has been a few years since I have done it, my memory is a bit fuzzy, you might also want to do a search and make sure the threads for the hardline will all match up. I know I had to get the hardline that went from the PV to the rear since the factory changed the fittings at some point and my '82's fittings didn't match the later hardware that I got for my disc conversion (I think they changed it twice throughout the years thirdgens were made). Another possible problem you may face, just a heads up.

 

Ok, update time.

I know it's because i'm a newbie to installing rears. But i spent all day putting the calipers on the rear and getting that setup. I'll tell you why since this may be useful to someone later.
PS. Pep Boys sucks for anything. The people there are stupid and dont help you and they have nothing. Ever.

First off, let me tell you if you didn't know that PBR brakes like those found on BW rears are not considered "stock" to autoparts warehouse, so since they dont have the parts for them, neither do autozone and just about any auto parts stores in your area since they usually order through a warehouse such as that. Secondly, unless you know someone or look like a guy who knows their ****, speed shops wont help you at all and they're the only local shops that would carry something for PBR brakes. I mention this because i spent most of the morning running around shops and junkyards looking for good bushings for the caliper pins. I found none. I eventually gave up. Had to improvise with some electrical tape, which seems to be working since i only needed to replace the outside bushing on one pin.

It's probably a mistake to even use these brakes due to rust, since the next holdup occured when trying to remove the brake lines in order to test them for blockages, the lines were rusted solid to the fittings. I had to cut the fittings off one line and re-flare it.

Then the pads I bought apparently have the wrong inside clip. So they didn't come with any C clips to go around the cylinder (not sure how important that is) and it had a V type clip going towards the caliper completely in the way along with burs that would cause it to not seat flat on the cylinder. So i had to grind all that off flat with a grinding wheel. Got it all back in the caliper and found that the rotor would not fit between the pads even with the cylinder completely pushed in ( as far is it goes anyway). Luckily my uncle had some older pads that were only spent halfway and i used the outer pads of those with my new inner pads and that fit. I guess i'll have to wear down the inner pad a bit before i put the new outer pads in. Not cool.

So towards the end of the day i get both calipers on and bolted up. Tightened up the differential backing plate after i had thoroughly cleaned it out to it's orange glory for two days and filled it up with some new synthetic mobil 75w gear oil. Plugged that up and now it sits ready to go in. I'm gonna have to wait until next week though because I know dropping my rear and putting this in isn't going to go text-book easy and I have work monday morning.

So yea, i'm stuck waiting another week to get the rear in. With any luck i'll have working calipers, otherwise i'll be heading to the junkyard and stealing some one elses. No 93+ fbodies in junk yards around here to steal newer style disc brakes from.

 

Ok, update #2

Installed the rear the other day. Only problem I really ran into was locktight on the brake line fittings on the proportioning valve and the mixture of metric and standard nuts and bolts throughout the rear leaving me running for various wrenches when the sockets wouldn't fit. I didn't put the E-brake cables on the top bracket that holds the lines high over the equalizing bracket so my E-brake light is always on right now, gonna fix that this week when i get around to it. Also gotta bleed the brakes a bit more up front and back because I gotta mash the brakes a bit to get some serious braking.

Now when i hit the gas hard even on a hill the car just launches forward instead of having one wheel burn rubber. Plus, 4 wheel disc. Not bad for 200 bucks + fluid costs.