I got the differential apart on the bench and I've run into a little snag. You know the shim that's suposed to be between the side gear and the friction cone? Well the one's in mine are fused to the side gears. Like a lot of heat made them one part. I'll try to get some pictures of what I'm talking about, but has anyone ever seen this before? And can I get them machined or do I need to get new peices if they're even available?

 

are you sure? they kinda have a step normally, not all of them need shims when they are new.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...highlight=posi

 

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. As you can see, this is the underside of one of the side gears. If you can tell in the photo, there is some clear wear and piting. I suppose that this can happen from crud getting in between the brake cone and the side gear and wearing the surface.

Question - can I still run it like this? will I ruin a shim if I don't machine the surface? and lastly, if machining is the answer, will a larger shim to make up the difference? or is that going to be pushing the limit of shim thickness?

Can you tell I'm a newb at gears and rears???

 

As long as I've got the camera handy...

Here's the bottom of the the brake cone. Both sides look pretty much the same.

How does this look? Do I need to worry here?

Thanks to those who've gone before me.

 

you don't need to touch the gear. (what you see is normal) both the gear and cone are on the same splines but, they do wiggle back and forth.



the cone is totally your choice! if you go through the link I posted and download the repair info you will see (from what it looks like in your picture) you are at the choice part (toss the cone or turn the damaged end down)


if some one has to do it for you and you will be charged then just buy new cones from 9bolt .com

 

I did check out the repair info. Great stuff! I wish that there were some specs on what the minimum amount of spline area required for a reliable cone to operate with. I know a couple of people with a lathe but I'd be reluctant to mill these down without really knowing if I'd grenade the whole thing down the road.

 

I took my cones down untill the tapperd part of the splines was almost gone. this will allow the same holding power but, may make it a little harder to slid in the axle if it is off the slightest bit.

 

Will the cones from a 2 series carrier work in the 3?? I've got a 2 series on the bench as well and it's in really good shape.

 

I can't say for sure but, side by side they do look identical.

 

I'll measure it up and make sure, but if they are that's a good source for some parts with everyone wanting the 3 series and getting rid of their 2!

 

Well, I got the old 2 series apart and the brake cones were in "BRAND NEW" condition. I put a caliper on them and the measure up at the same size (actually they were a little bigger because the old one's had some wear on them). I'm going to give them a try.

Question--is there any reason not to mix and match the internals from one diff to another as far as the gears go?? Also, can someone tell me what the difference is between the 2 & 3 series because to my untrained eye, they seem pretty damn similar.

 

well, they always say don't mix parts because they like to wear to each other causing a pattern. If they are in good condition I know I would but, that's just a choice you need to make.


if you set both diffs next to each other (on end) look at the hight of the ring gear flange- this is what sets the two apart