Alrighti just got my car running and aside from a few lil problems i am having a problem with the car not wanting to shift into the gears smoothly and the clutch is not disengaging properly. when i went to check the pedal travel i litterally have to smash it to the floor to get it to go into one of the other gears... now i looked on the master cyclinder i can not find where to adjust it at it does not look like it screws on theshaft at all i am at my wits end and i just got the car running help me please guys thanks
jmd
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You didn't specify which hydraulics you're using.
Are you using an LT1 trans & hydraulics?
Or aftermarket T56 & thirdgen hydraulics?
Bleeding the thirdgen stuff is easy; just like you do brakes. Open bleeder, have a helper press pedal, close bleeder, release pedal.
LT1 hydraulics, see here: http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=174146
Are you using an LT1 trans & hydraulics?
Or aftermarket T56 & thirdgen hydraulics?
Bleeding the thirdgen stuff is easy; just like you do brakes. Open bleeder, have a helper press pedal, close bleeder, release pedal.
LT1 hydraulics, see here: http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=174146
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TKOPerformance
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- Car'86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
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Are you sure that the fork seated in the throwout bearing? It is easy on these cars to think you've got it together right and you don't. The fork engages two of the flats on the throwout bearing and is a real PITA to get lined up.
You can't adjust the stock hydraulics. They are what they are. If you need adjustability you have to change to a McLeod unit, which is adjustable.
What clutch are you using?
You can't adjust the stock hydraulics. They are what they are. If you need adjustability you have to change to a McLeod unit, which is adjustable.
What clutch are you using?
i am using the stock lt1 hydraulics the shift fork is installed correctly and i am using the stock clutch i had the services shop install it and i have to literally put the pedal to the floor in order to shift it into gear and it is hard to get into gear i think it should be smoother i will trya nd loosen the bolts for the master cylinder and re bleed it because i did nto loosen them before but i don't see it making a difference...
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TKOPerformance
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- TransmissionT56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
- Axle/Gears3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
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Did the hydraulics come used, or did you buy them new from GM? The new hydraulics from GM are a sealed unit that is pre-bled, ready to go. That's what I used and I had no problems with them. Effectively the system should self bleed to an extent. I'm not really sure how to bleed the LT1 stuff, because I don't think it has a bleeder screw like the 3rd gen hydraulics, or other systems I've seen.
Was the clutch new or used? If it was used it may be shot. The symptoms you are describing are the same sysmptoms of a clutch that needs to be replaced.
BTW, with the stock hrdraulics on my SPEC stage III clutch I can almost breath on the pedal and it fully disengages the clutch. It's a great setup for powershifting and rowing through the gears. A little harsh on take-off through.
Was the clutch new or used? If it was used it may be shot. The symptoms you are describing are the same sysmptoms of a clutch that needs to be replaced.
BTW, with the stock hrdraulics on my SPEC stage III clutch I can almost breath on the pedal and it fully disengages the clutch. It's a great setup for powershifting and rowing through the gears. A little harsh on take-off through.
clutch is brand new and the hydaulics ae brand new from autozone
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TKOPerformance
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I doubt the hydraulics or clutch are the problem then if they are both brand new.
The bolt on the clutch fork may have come loose. This turned out to be the problem for another TGO subscriber on another thread. He had similar symptoms. All you have to do is pull the slave and shine a flashlight up inside the bellhousing and you should be able to see if the t-stud has backed out. The bolt won't come out completely, because it will hit the p.plate first. Scratches on the p.plate from bolt contact would be another indication. This bolt should be threadlocked.
The bolt on the clutch fork may have come loose. This turned out to be the problem for another TGO subscriber on another thread. He had similar symptoms. All you have to do is pull the slave and shine a flashlight up inside the bellhousing and you should be able to see if the t-stud has backed out. The bolt won't come out completely, because it will hit the p.plate first. Scratches on the p.plate from bolt contact would be another indication. This bolt should be threadlocked.




