T56 Pedal Drilling???
06-20-2005, 03:08 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-z 1994 Z28 LT1
Engine: 5.7 Liter L98 Tuned Port Injection 5.7 LT1
Transmission: 700R4 and 4L60E
T56 Pedal Drilling???
I am in the process of buying everything for the T56 conversion and I was wondering is it possible for me to take my car to a shop and get the pedals and slave cylinder mounted while my 700r4 is still in place. I don't want to do the pedal part of the swap because i don't want to mess up on that part of the swap since it seems like the trickiest part of the swap.
06-20-2005, 03:21 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
yea, you could do it that way...
athough its really not that hard.
mount the pedals.. measure twice, drill once.
as long as you're using the correct size metal holesaw, its cake.
athough its really not that hard.
mount the pedals.. measure twice, drill once.
as long as you're using the correct size metal holesaw, its cake.
06-20-2005, 03:27 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-z 1994 Z28 LT1
Engine: 5.7 Liter L98 Tuned Port Injection 5.7 LT1
Transmission: 700R4 and 4L60E
Did you have to remove the steering column to mount the pedals?
06-20-2005, 03:48 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Ant
Did you have to remove the steering column to mount the pedals?
Did you have to remove the steering column to mount the pedals?
you do have to remove the two nuts holding it under the dash, however, thats it... two nuts, it hangs a bit lower, use some long extensions to get the bolts, and they come off...
the column never comes out, it just hangs low while you get the pedals out... very easy if you do it that way... (and almost impossible if you dont.. lol
06-20-2005, 10:33 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-z 1994 Z28 LT1
Engine: 5.7 Liter L98 Tuned Port Injection 5.7 LT1
Transmission: 700R4 and 4L60E
Alright, thanks for the reply from what you said it doesn't seem that hard i was just confused with the steering column and the room to mount the pedals.
06-21-2005, 01:39 PM
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Check out the firewall insulation pad. It most likely is pre-punched for the clutch pushrod and mountign hardware. I used mine as a template and made the required holes. Clutch works perfectly, so I must have done it right.
Drop the column, remove the power booster (leave the master hanging and connected). That gives you the best access to all areas. Tighten the bolts down incrementally when installign the pedal hanger. This will keep everything lined up, and prevent binding. All in all it isn't that hard. If you can handle the rest of the swap you can handle this.
Drop the column, remove the power booster (leave the master hanging and connected). That gives you the best access to all areas. Tighten the bolts down incrementally when installign the pedal hanger. This will keep everything lined up, and prevent binding. All in all it isn't that hard. If you can handle the rest of the swap you can handle this.
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