U-joints are good, right? Can't manually rotate driveshaft, no play whatsover.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,043
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From: San Diego
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
U-joints are good, right? Can't manually rotate driveshaft, no play whatsover.
...Would that point to bad U-joints? Because I couldn't get it to budge, which is a good thing, right.
Here's what I did, I jacked up the rear of the car with the E-brake on of course, car off and in park, I reached up and tried with all my might to rotate the Driveshaft. It wouldn't budge. So my U-joints are fine right?
Please someone tell me that I am correct and to look somewhere else for the cause of my vibrations.
Here's what I did, I jacked up the rear of the car with the E-brake on of course, car off and in park, I reached up and tried with all my might to rotate the Driveshaft. It wouldn't budge. So my U-joints are fine right?
Please someone tell me that I am correct and to look somewhere else for the cause of my vibrations.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
I would say that you're correct in the U/J's being fine. If they were worn then you would be able to rotate the driveshaft (propshaft).
However, it may be worth unbolting the rear u/j clamps, rotating the propshaft then re-clamping so that the rear u/j is now 180 degrees out from its original position in the diff. yoke
Turns out that my T/A had the u/j fitted wrong - once I'd done that, the driveline vibrations went away.
Mark.
However, it may be worth unbolting the rear u/j clamps, rotating the propshaft then re-clamping so that the rear u/j is now 180 degrees out from its original position in the diff. yoke
Turns out that my T/A had the u/j fitted wrong - once I'd done that, the driveline vibrations went away.
Mark.
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