Just wondering how a 2500 stall would act with my setup (looking into my future parts)


Current Mods:Modded Air filter assembly,K&N Air Filters,Weight Reduction,Chip, Cowl Induction Hood, TPIS Air Foil, Custom Ram Air, Accel 300+ race wires, Noloy plugs,

Coming Soon: .536/.544 lunati cam, 58 MM TB, TB Spacer. 3.42/3.73's, Full 3 inch mandrel bent exhuast-Loudmouth muffler, SLP headers can coated and wrapped.electrical cutout,shift kit, acell super ram, suspension upgrade, bigger injectors, procharger-afrtercooled, AFR heads..to name a few

 

need some more specs on the new cam. Thats whats going to determine the stall speed you need.

 

Am guessing the duration @ .050 will be pretty stout with those lift numbers. Without seeing actual duration am positive the 2500 will be way too low.

More specs to get it close needed.

 

im having the same thing. is there some type of power to stall ratio or something?

 

The stall just needs to be in the powerband of the cam your using. If its not you will have really crappy launches and overall performance.

 

well, can you tell me what would be ideal for my cam? thatd be awesome.

Camshaft: High-performance hydraulic roller profile with 235 degrees duration (at .050" tappet lift) and .480" maximum valve lift.

I think its 235 on both sides.

 

The 230+ durations will generally put your powerband coming in around the 3000rpm point and up. Give the 235* optimum would be in the 35-3800 range. If this is street strip go with a nice 10" convertor and you'll notice no difference on the street until you mash the throttle.

Only problem going 10" with bigger duration cams is they tend to be tight on the low side, which in the big picture will really want to pull the motor down when you throw it in gear from park or neutral. Example, say your idle rpm in park is 1000rpm, you put in into Drive/Overdrive and it'll want to pull the motor down to 600 rpm. It'll stay running, car will sound extra nasty with the border line too low rpm in gear, and will pose inital brakes to be stiff until you get under way to start building some vacuum. But valve timing and LSA will also factor into all of that and like everything else, everybodies combination is a little different so naturally it may act a little different.

Going down to a 9.5" convertor would be another option, but it'll typically act like a 10" unless you have the fin angle tweaked per application-which involves installing it when you first get it, run it a few times to see what it does and how it acts, removing and sending back to factory so they can optimize convertor guts per YOUR application, and you typically get 1 free tweak after inital install within a reasonable time frame-you just pay shipping costs. This is something many racers looking to optimize 110% do, but your typical car guy does'nt need to go to this extreme.

Any convertor will work, even your 2500 stall your talking about, but it's not going to match the combination and performance will be lacking-convertors are every bit as important as the cam, heads, etc...at face value they dont seem like it, but all your power goes through it to make the car move and perform and the price tag on good convertors reflects this

 

Now there's a good example. My engine idles in the 1000-1200 range however my 8" converter stalls at 5700. When I put it in gear, the rpm doesn't drop at all. The exhaust is still loud but I don't get that "rump, rump" sound of a big cam and a low stall converter.

I agree that your 2500 stall converter will work. The stall speed though is only an estimate. A converter stall speed depends a lot on how much torque is being put into it. In one engine it may stall at 2000 while in another it may be 3000.

Technically, the stall speed should be just under the engine's peak torque. This allows the engine rpm to quickly come up to the peak torque where it can do the most work. When not under load, a car can still drive around relatively easily with a higher stall converter. At rpms below the stall speed, the converter just slips. All converters slip. The downside is that this slipping creates heat. Install a good aftermarket oil cooler.

 

yea, the guy gave me a bigger oil cooler with it too. i bought the whole new tranny. before this i was just running a plain stock 86 tranny. and now ill be running a goodwrench rebuilt with 15k on it from a 90 car with a stock coverter, restalled to 2400, and the bigger cooler. got it all for 250, and the guy only lived like 20 miles away. so, this should kick my other setups *** right? i mean this is my daily street driver, and i barely ever get on it.