I am curious if theres anyway to exchange the 700R4s without a engine lift to tilt the engine backward to get to the top bolts?

I want to also go over the basics of what I need to do... Correct me if I miss something or I am wrong somewhere...

Basicaly the shifter assembly needs to come off so the transmissions can drop down.

Disconnect the driveshaft

Kick down cable has to be disconnected.

Speedo mech has to be disconnected.

Unscrew all tranny to engine bolts...(Refer to top to get to the top bolts)

Then reverse the steps for the new transmission.

Can't be that simple right? What am I missing?

O yea....torque converter has to be swapped...whats the steps on that?

 

2 ways to go about it. First, extensions and swivels. Second, ratcheting wrenches from above. First was isnt much fun, second way sucks too, if you have big hands.

 

Thanks Anyone else on the other stuff?

 

Dont forget the cooler lines and if you tilt the engine and trans backward you will need to remove the cap and or the whole distributor so it doesn't hit the firewall and break.

 

Well problem is we dont wanna tilt it back haha so I guess were gonna hire a circus midget to get the top bolts

 

You need a 3' long extention and a 14mm swivel socket. Drop the crossmember, torque arm and driveshaft. The trans will drop enough for you to get the top bolts out.

 

Ive R&R'd my 700 at least 4x now and have never tilted the engine. Invest in a reall long extension and a 9/16 wobble socket.

 

When you pull the crossmember off the motor will tilt back. Even more so if you've got weak motor mounts

You need more than a wobble socket. You need a swivel socket. The wobble socket doesn't wobble enough.

 

dont forget the flywheel bolts need to be takin off as well from the torque converter

 

A friend of mine owed me some money and he was kind enough to repay me by giving me a 3 ft. long Snap-On extension with a wobbly tip. I use that along with a u-joint and a short six point 9/16" socket, and it works like a dream. All the above tools are 3/8" drive. I put a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter on the end of the extension so I can use a 1/2" breaker bar to initially break the bolts loose. I usually put a flat piece of plywood and a floor jack under the tranny pan before removing the crossmember, that way you can lower it just enough to gain easy access to the top bolts. I try not to lower it more than necessary so I don't risk messing up the motor mounts. Once you're ready to drop the trans, take a second floor jack and flat board and put it under the engine oil pan to support the motor. Oh yeah, for the coolant lines a short flare nut wrench or a crows foot works good for getting them undone. Good luck and I hope this helps!