I just got the April 2006 issue of Chevy High Performance and it includes the second part of an article on the installation and use of an STS rear mount turbocharger on 1999 SS Camaro.

At ten psi they generated peak torque of 498.52 ft./lb.

With a 2,400 PRM Pro Torque converter and Mickey Thompson P255/50R16 ET Street Radials, they managed to break not one but two stock LS1 aluminum driveshafts at the dragstrip.

I know that a lot of people around here have been talking about upgrading to an LS1 driveshaft. In fact, I may still do so myself. Just beware they're not as strong as you may think.

Lance

 

everything breaks sometime with more power. I'm still confused how the 10 bolt didn't break but they went through 2 driveshafts. Luckily i'm running a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft rated at 1000 HP. I believe the article swapped to something similar.

 

I learned recently that SLP upgraded the rear end assembleys of the Caramos and Firebirds that they converted to SS and Ram Air cars for GM. I can't remember what they used but they needed greater durability than the 10 bolt assembley could offer.

I guess that makes the LS1 aluminum driveshaft the weak link in the drivetrain.

I'm still going to use one in my car. I am planning to build a 350 that should put out no more than 450 ft./lb. max and I want to keep a near stock stall speed. Plus I dont run drag radials. I run 255/40/17 tires. I don't know but I think the LS1 driveshaft should be able to survive this type of setup.

Let's hope so.

 

SLP swapped out the posi units, but these rear ends still snap easily enough. Typically aluminum driveshafts are fine until they're hooked up with a 6 speed trans, all the shock in the driveline ends up breaking them. Behind an auto both the rear end and driveshaft tend to last longer, until better traction is acheived. The best thing for your car with a built motor is to step up to a bigger stall. Have it match whatever cam you choose and it'll feel like a different beast altogether otherwise it'll feel gutless and run poorly at low RPMs.

 

how similar are LS1 aluminum shafts compared to factory 3rd gen aluminum ones? My factory one seems to be holding up to the abuse of my launches... I don't even have a safety loop yet but something tells me I definately should invest in one soon.

 

LS1 shafts are thicker than factory thirdgen shafts. How does your track let you run slicks and not a driveshaft loop?

 

The only thing SLP did was offer an Auburn unit for the ten bolt. Strength wise the rear was just as vulnerable. Not every SLP car had this posi as it was an option.

 

never been tech inspected. they tend to not look over street cars. They do pick on trailered cars though... Guess its too much of a PITA to look under/over every single car that drives in.

 

well i'd still spend the $30 and get one. your floorpan will thank you. not to mention if the driveshaft ever came up through the floor and into the drivers, legs, arms, whatever.

 

Its probably because hes running the DOT hoosier quick time pro's. At my track, i would have to run a driveshaft loop if i ran slicks, on DOT tires its not necessary. I run the quick time pros, but i have a driveshaft loop just in case.

I am running an Inland Empire 3" aluminum driveshaft, they are rated to 500hp

 

This is what i have .. worth every penny

http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/ln0350s.html

 

I ended up snapping a driveshaft in a 99 Trans Am WS-6 SLP with a 4l60e at 110 mph. snapped the u-joint right off the rear end. scared the crap out of me and my buddy lol.

 

Ouch. It went at high speed! I hear of more shafts snapping from a real hard launch on slicks or drag radials.

Do you think maybee it wasn't straight? Was there any wierd vibration at higher speeds?

Did you replace it with another stock piece or did you upgrade?