Im upgrading my 10 bolt with a eaton posi, richmond gears and moser axles an I want to know how much torque will it be able to handle? I've heard some people say 450lbs is this true or can it take more or less?

 

really stiffens up the little 10 bolts housing and axle tubes

http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp

 

It can take quite a bit of torque and survive as long as the tires don't grip.

If I were going to put that much cash into a rear end, I'd save up a little more and go with a 12 bolt.
i've got the same parts in my car that you are ordering and I think my friend paid about $1000 for everything. I ended up buying the rear end from him for $350 with about 3000 miles on it.

 

I'd save up a little more and go with a 12 bolt.

Have you priced a 12 bolt? Try $2500 with disc brakes $2900. Big difference from a $1000 bucks.
I'm not a serious drag racer and I'm trying to build a 400 sbc like
F-BIRD'88 got. BTW how much hp and tq do you have in your setup F-BIRD'88 got any ET's? Have you ever had it brake on you? Also tell me whats your engine combination I'm looking for some ideas on my 400.

 

it's all fine and dandy till you start spending $150 + install on gears every few months when they break. If you can install gears yourself, you'll save in the long run, but if you have to pay, let's say $200 in labor each time, you will eventually equal the price of the 12bolt and still have a 10bolt.

my brother has gone through 14 10bolts in the past 4 years with his LT1 6 speed (currently a heads/cam LT1 auto with stall and soon to be heads/cam LS1 with stall) and still has the 10bolt.
his car was putting down 340ft/lbs TQ to the wheels.

 

my 10 bolt last one launch off a 3200 stall with 300/300 at the rear wheels. had slicks on but it was on the street so it didn't even hook hard.

 

Jury rigged 10 bolt :-)

90k + half worn posi and 90k gears that were originally in it.

1.5x 60 fts and still alive to this day.

We wouldnt have had to rig it with my old guts, but my friend lost a c clip that ate up the spider gears on the original stuff. We K-mart rebuilt it.

Properly setup they should get u in the 400/400 range.

I am talking with a real not factory posi and proper gear setup.

They will last longer on auto vs slicks, than dropping the clutch on a stick or a trans braked auto.

Making sure the tubes are striaght in the first place and welding them in will help, as will running a diff cover with the brace/bolts for the caps

When someone breaks a rear here racing whether it be slick or street tire, it doesnt have much credit to me if it has been abused and is now pushing 15-20 yrs old and xxx,xxx mil;es of abuse. thats when I;ve seen most of them fail.

later
Jeremy

 

1988 formula ran high 12's with a Lincon locker ( welded posi ) and spit the axle out first run and almost put him in the wall . If you DO try and see what the rear will take , put on rear discs so the whell don't come off .


DAM them C clips

 

Ok so you guys say a well built 7.5 can only take 400/400 is that at the wheels or crank?

Even still that sounds kind of low and I'm trying to build a 438 sbc that has over 500lbs of tq. I guess i'm going to have to bite the bullet on this one.

 

This is usually what breaks in the 10 bolts,

 

i think it depends souly up on how you shift and hook. If you are going to build this thing with street tires i wouldn't be super worried myself. A manual seems to kill them fairly quick though if you like shifting super speedy.

My neighbor built a street racing car with 400 trq on a 350 using a powertrax locker and stock 10 bolt from 1982 running 10in slicks and his is still alive to this day with no problems.

I also used to know a guy with an S-10 blazer running a 454 pushing 570 trq to a 10 bolt rear using sotck tires and a good posi with 4.10s that never broke (couldn't ever hook). Still managed 13s in stock form on the 454 before rebuilt and built up so i'm sure it was capable of 12s or 11s afterwards hooking or not.

 

a solid pinion spacer from ratech p/n 4111, and a girdle, like the LPW one, or the summit/jegs versions, are MUST HAVES.
main cap studs are also a good beef up, and weld your axle tubes.

many members have gone rather fast on a 10 bolt.

 

my motor was dynoed at 576hp and 582 ft-lbs of torque. i still have a stock 10 bolt with an auburn posi. ive had this setup for about a year with no problems. like someone else said, im not worried about the rear holding that power, im more worried about when it hooks. as of right now it doesnt hook worth a ****. but when it does i would imagine that it will destroy that rear.