My plastic slave cyl line broke. So I spend the $90 and buy the silly AN-4 to roll pin fittings to convert the slave line to SS braid.
Well it broke the plastic slave cyl so I replaced that and upgraded to the aluminum slave cyl.
The problem is I cant seem to bleed it right. It has a bleeder screw, I tried pumping the cyl by hand but the car wont go out of gear, if I start it in gear it drives off. The only reason i know its the slave cyl is because the pedal is soft.
I am using a V6 slave cyl but i checked both at autozone they are exactly the same, but the v8 is more.
anyone have better bleeding ideas?
I have searched and only found what I have already done.

 

I had the same problem and i just went ahead and bought the whole assembly from gm cost 212 from the pedal to the slave and hoses in between

 

works best by installing it, open the bleeder and let it drip while keeping the res. full do this for 10 min, then close the bleeder and have a second person slowly pump the pedal several times to work the air pockets, then open the bleeder, have the second person slowly press the pedal to the floor and while they hold it to the floor carfully close the bleeder screw. then have them release the pedal. then reopen the bleader and repeat untill no air comes out. (every few times fill the res. and slowley pump the pedal to work the air pockets) and repeat. this seems to work best but, can get very long

 

gravity bleed is the gm method but i've not had a lot of luck with it. i ended up getting pheniox injector kit and reverse bleeding it, worked great took about 2 minutes to do. same with doing brakes with the pheniox kit.

 

Ok this works for me for all the times I was dicking around with my clutch system. Open your filler cap, take your slave off then with it in a 45* angle piston side down I want you to pump the slave piston back and forth tell it gets hard. What happens is air goes up fluid goes down, just make sure you fill up the reservoir when needed.