It Won't Move!
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From: Menominee MI
It Won't Move!
everytime i put my car in gear, it just squaks the tires real quick and snubs out the motor.. I think the culprite is the new B&M 2400 holeshot converter i just put in. I installed it, and the thing was running really good, stalling at like 2600 rpms, and it seemed real good. but then i came up to a stop sign, and it almost seemed like the converter just locked, and wouldn't come unlocked when i took off, so its not absorbing anything from the motor, its just going straight through the tranny to the rearend like its running 1:1 ratio through...i thought maybe the torque converter clutch just engaged to lock it up, then it just wouldn't unlock for some reason, so I unplugged the wires going to the trans, and that didn't work..shouldn't it come unlocked automatically when that is unplugged?
is there anyway to tell which is bad, the converter or the tranny? because i need to know quick. Becuase if its the trans, i have a warranty on it, and if its the converter I'm just going to swap to a six speed instead, and sell the trans...
is there anyway to tell which is bad, the converter or the tranny? because i need to know quick. Becuase if its the trans, i have a warranty on it, and if its the converter I'm just going to swap to a six speed instead, and sell the trans...
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: baldwin city, ks
Car: 84 454 monte, 89 formula, 86 camaro
Engine: the bigger the better
Transmission: 700/4L60 in everything
Axle/Gears: wish they were all 4.10's or better
it IS possible the clutch inside the converter is jammed on, but being new, I wouldn't think so. it's also possible that the converter clutch valve inside the trans pump body is stuck in the applied position, but that's also an "I wouldn't think so" type situation. I have only seen that once in the last 20 years....
I would call B&M and ask them if the converter has failed stuck on (which I have NEVER seen before) and what they want you to check before they warranty your converter.
IF the converter has failed, they usually leave A LOT of aluminum shavings inside the trans filter, I suppose you could pull the pan and tear apart the filter, look inside and see. if there's nothing there, you might pull out the TCC solenoid (2-10mm bolts right at the front, inside the pan, that goes up into the pump) and there you'll see a washer held in by an internal snap ring that has an offset hole in it. take a small screwdriver, poke it gently through the hole to push the tcc valve up and it should pop right back down to the washer level. if you can't see anything through the offset hole, then the valve is stuck in the up position and that's your problem. pull the snap ring out, the washer will fall out, then use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull the valve out and polish it with scotchbrite and then spray the bore out with brake cleaner and blow compressed air inside to remove debris, then work the valve in and out with the needle nose pliers untill the valve has no resistance.
then put it all back together.
good luck.
I would call B&M and ask them if the converter has failed stuck on (which I have NEVER seen before) and what they want you to check before they warranty your converter.
IF the converter has failed, they usually leave A LOT of aluminum shavings inside the trans filter, I suppose you could pull the pan and tear apart the filter, look inside and see. if there's nothing there, you might pull out the TCC solenoid (2-10mm bolts right at the front, inside the pan, that goes up into the pump) and there you'll see a washer held in by an internal snap ring that has an offset hole in it. take a small screwdriver, poke it gently through the hole to push the tcc valve up and it should pop right back down to the washer level. if you can't see anything through the offset hole, then the valve is stuck in the up position and that's your problem. pull the snap ring out, the washer will fall out, then use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull the valve out and polish it with scotchbrite and then spray the bore out with brake cleaner and blow compressed air inside to remove debris, then work the valve in and out with the needle nose pliers untill the valve has no resistance.
then put it all back together.
good luck.
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From: Menominee MI
does it sound like a converter problem or a tranny problem?
because like i said i have a warranty on the tranny, and I can just trailor it into the shop and they are responsible for fixing it... do you think thats what I should do, just take it the shop that built the trans and have them put it up on the lift and check it out?
because like i said i have a warranty on the tranny, and I can just trailor it into the shop and they are responsible for fixing it... do you think thats what I should do, just take it the shop that built the trans and have them put it up on the lift and check it out?
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From: Lillington,N.C.
Car: 84Z28
Engine: 0.030 over 10.25:1 dart heads 350
Transmission: T 5 W.C. now
Axle/Gears: 3.73:1
The question is will the shop warranty the tranny after you installed the converter?........if so I'd let them deal with it....if they say it is the converter I'd get it replaced....and if it still does it make the shop tear into the tranny.....
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From: Menominee MI
the shop that built the trans is owned by a friend of the family that goes way back, so it shouldn't be a problem to have one of his worker's work on it... i just wanted to make sure its not a simple problem that can be fixed, instead of bringing it to him for something that can easily be done by me because its kind of a lot of work to get it on the trailor and take it down to him and everything...
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