t5 t56
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Cochrane Alberta
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
t5 t56
Ok I have a 2 piece rear main seal engine being built at this time. I also have a t56 from an lt1. From what I have read about this swap etc I should be ok with a standard 168tooth flywheel. I keep reading about different adapter plates etc. Can I use my existing clutch? It has only 1500km in it so i don't really want to buy a new one.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,867
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
No, and no.
I can't begin to guess what you've been reading; but it sounds like you should quit reading whatever it is.
A 168-tooth flywheel won't even fit inside the T-56 bell housing. Let alone support the one-of-a-kind clutch you'll need.
You need the LT1 T-56 clutch, and you need the "conversion" flywheel. No other way to make it work without $$$aftermarket parts$$$.
I can't begin to guess what you've been reading; but it sounds like you should quit reading whatever it is.
A 168-tooth flywheel won't even fit inside the T-56 bell housing. Let alone support the one-of-a-kind clutch you'll need.
You need the LT1 T-56 clutch, and you need the "conversion" flywheel. No other way to make it work without $$$aftermarket parts$$$.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Cochrane Alberta
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Ok, perhaps you could steer me in the right direction then. i read the info stated on this site, which is why I am confused. Better to check now then have a massive problem later.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,867
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
OK, here goes, on a napkin:
First off, I'm talking strictly about stock parts here; no aftermarket bell housings, no aftermarket hydraulic throwout bearings, etc.
The T-56 does not bolt to any bell housing but its own. Its own bell housing will only accomodate a 12.8" flywheel, which is different from the one that goes with the T-5. The bell housing only accommodates the pull type clutch that comes with the T-56.
Therefore, the only way to use the stock T-56, is to use the T-56 flywheel, T-56 bell housing, T-56 clutch, and T-56 hydraulics.
The problem is, the stock T-56 flywheel is for a 1-pc rear main seal motor.
Therefore you need the conversion flywheel that has the T-56 clutch properties, but bolts up to your 2-pc RMS motor.
Your stock 3rd gen pedals will work. That's what I have, in my own car. Which incidentally is a 1983 car that came with a mechanical clutch, that I converted to hydraulic a long time ago. Got the pedals, BH, and so on, out of a junk later-model car, like a 1984 or somehting. Then when I put in the T-56, I just bought a new T-56 hydraulic assembly from GM because my T-56 didn't happen to come with it; and just installed it all and hooked it all up, and it works perfect.
One of the most expensive things you'll have to do, will be getting your speedo to work. The T-56 VSS does not work the same way as the T-5. However, by modifying the extension housing, it can be made to work. Check Jags That Run for the modified extension housing.
You'll have to use the special T-56 pull-type clutch; when you look at your T-56 bell housing, you'll understand why.
You'll need a different crossmember because the T-56 locates the trans mount about 6" farther back.
Other than that, it's a direct bolt-in.
First off, I'm talking strictly about stock parts here; no aftermarket bell housings, no aftermarket hydraulic throwout bearings, etc.
The T-56 does not bolt to any bell housing but its own. Its own bell housing will only accomodate a 12.8" flywheel, which is different from the one that goes with the T-5. The bell housing only accommodates the pull type clutch that comes with the T-56.
Therefore, the only way to use the stock T-56, is to use the T-56 flywheel, T-56 bell housing, T-56 clutch, and T-56 hydraulics.
The problem is, the stock T-56 flywheel is for a 1-pc rear main seal motor.
Therefore you need the conversion flywheel that has the T-56 clutch properties, but bolts up to your 2-pc RMS motor.
Your stock 3rd gen pedals will work. That's what I have, in my own car. Which incidentally is a 1983 car that came with a mechanical clutch, that I converted to hydraulic a long time ago. Got the pedals, BH, and so on, out of a junk later-model car, like a 1984 or somehting. Then when I put in the T-56, I just bought a new T-56 hydraulic assembly from GM because my T-56 didn't happen to come with it; and just installed it all and hooked it all up, and it works perfect.
One of the most expensive things you'll have to do, will be getting your speedo to work. The T-56 VSS does not work the same way as the T-5. However, by modifying the extension housing, it can be made to work. Check Jags That Run for the modified extension housing.
You'll have to use the special T-56 pull-type clutch; when you look at your T-56 bell housing, you'll understand why.
You'll need a different crossmember because the T-56 locates the trans mount about 6" farther back.
Other than that, it's a direct bolt-in.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Cochrane Alberta
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
I appreciate your patience, Having never done this swap before I am triple checking everything before proceeding.
I found a Lakewood scattershiled PN 15020 that will supposedly allow me to use the t56 and retain the flywheel and clutch assembly currently in my car. Can anyone confirm whether this is true or not?
I found a Lakewood scattershiled PN 15020 that will supposedly allow me to use the t56 and retain the flywheel and clutch assembly currently in my car. Can anyone confirm whether this is true or not?
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,867
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
There is an enormous long thread with all manner of part numbers, costs, prices, tales of woe, broken & otherwise trashed parts because they didn't fit, measurements of how far things are off from where they're supposed to be, fabrication instructions, and on and on and on; about half a mouse click away from where you posted this.
Doesn't even need a search, just the least amount of scanning the page.
I think, judging by the nature of the questions you're asking, that you're not ready for all of that yet.... you'll just end up getting yourse'f into something you can't get out of, and walking or taking the bus for months because your car is diabled and you can't get it to work right again. You'll be money and trouble ahead, if you just go get the right flywheel and clutch, and put it in your car, and don't go overboard trying to "save" money on re-using your existing clutch.
Think of it this way: if it's good enough to spend money to re-use, then it's good enough that somebody will be willing to buy it from you. If you can't sell it, then it's not worth spending other money around, to graunch it into your system. Make sense?
Doesn't even need a search, just the least amount of scanning the page.I think, judging by the nature of the questions you're asking, that you're not ready for all of that yet.... you'll just end up getting yourse'f into something you can't get out of, and walking or taking the bus for months because your car is diabled and you can't get it to work right again. You'll be money and trouble ahead, if you just go get the right flywheel and clutch, and put it in your car, and don't go overboard trying to "save" money on re-using your existing clutch.
Think of it this way: if it's good enough to spend money to re-use, then it's good enough that somebody will be willing to buy it from you. If you can't sell it, then it's not worth spending other money around, to graunch it into your system. Make sense?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Cochrane Alberta
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Indeed there is alot to read and thus the confusion. I have a 383 almost ready a 3.73 fourth gen installed and ready to go. I figured since I had the whole drive line out I might as well up to the t56 while at it. Plus given the 383 I'm building I would destroy the t5 in no time. This is a weekend summer driver so no worries on taking the bus, company vehicle will be fine I'm sure. I have read for hours on this swap and thus the questions, there is ample talk of going the route your speaking and lots of talk on adapter plates and everything else both here and on other forums. If there is some real good reason that you know of to not use an adapter plate and do it another way please share. That IS the whole reason I am here and asking questions. I've read a million ways of completing that which I am trying to do..trying to determine what will be best in my case. From advise given by others seemed that the adapter plate should work well, however if this has been tried and the results were not good this I would like to know. Thanks.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigjay89gta
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
12
Oct 15, 2015 08:04 AM







