cost of install
cost of install
I am putting 3.42 richmond gears in my 91 to replace the 2.73 ones. It is an open unit series 2 carrier and the gears are for the series 2. How much does everybody think a job like this should go for at a local shop? Thanks for your thoughts.
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
You need a new carrier as well, which can get to be expensive. I'm in the same position and I'm weighing the cost of just getting a 4th gen rear axle.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
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If you take the rear to the shop, it should take about 3 hours labor; so it'll be 3 times whatever your shop's hourly rate is.
I'd expect something in the $200-250 sort of range.
If the rear is still in the car, it'll take about an hour more. In that case, expect $300ish.
What you're doing is a terrible combo of parts. You've got an open carrier, 2 series; and you're putting the Richmond gears on it. I take it those are the racing ones; the ones that are for drag racing ONLY, that are specifically NOT supposed to be used on the street.
It's like all the most wrong possible parts, all at once, if this is a street driver.
First off, the Richmond drag racing gears are made of softer metal, to absorb the shock of hard launches on slicks. The very thing that makes them superior for drag racing, also DOOMS them to CERTAIN failure, short life, noisy operation, and otherwise generally unsatisfactory results if driven on the street. If this car is EVER used as a daily driver, DON'T use those gears. Use a high-quality set of stock type gears; Dana, US Gear, Precision, Motive, etc.
Second, there's about ZERO common sense in tearing down a 2-series open rear, and leaving the 2 series open carrier in it. You REALLY should be putting a posi in it.
Third, you've got the "special" 3 series gears for a 2 series carrier. While those "work" just fine as far as working goes, it's a bad idea, because now you're stuck with a 2 series carrier FOREVER. You CANNOT put a 3 series carrier in it. Meaning, you get your rear back, you dicover what a mistake leaving the open diff in it was, now what do you do?? If you just HAVE TO use the 2-series carrier, use a REGULAR 3-series gear, and a ring gear spacer, so you're a little bit more nearly "future-proof".
I'd strongly suggest re-thinking your plan of attack. Maybe get a whole other core rear end to build up on, that's closer to your desired end product in the first place.
I'd expect something in the $200-250 sort of range.
If the rear is still in the car, it'll take about an hour more. In that case, expect $300ish.
What you're doing is a terrible combo of parts. You've got an open carrier, 2 series; and you're putting the Richmond gears on it. I take it those are the racing ones; the ones that are for drag racing ONLY, that are specifically NOT supposed to be used on the street.
It's like all the most wrong possible parts, all at once, if this is a street driver.
First off, the Richmond drag racing gears are made of softer metal, to absorb the shock of hard launches on slicks. The very thing that makes them superior for drag racing, also DOOMS them to CERTAIN failure, short life, noisy operation, and otherwise generally unsatisfactory results if driven on the street. If this car is EVER used as a daily driver, DON'T use those gears. Use a high-quality set of stock type gears; Dana, US Gear, Precision, Motive, etc.
Second, there's about ZERO common sense in tearing down a 2-series open rear, and leaving the 2 series open carrier in it. You REALLY should be putting a posi in it.
Third, you've got the "special" 3 series gears for a 2 series carrier. While those "work" just fine as far as working goes, it's a bad idea, because now you're stuck with a 2 series carrier FOREVER. You CANNOT put a 3 series carrier in it. Meaning, you get your rear back, you dicover what a mistake leaving the open diff in it was, now what do you do?? If you just HAVE TO use the 2-series carrier, use a REGULAR 3-series gear, and a ring gear spacer, so you're a little bit more nearly "future-proof".
I'd strongly suggest re-thinking your plan of attack. Maybe get a whole other core rear end to build up on, that's closer to your desired end product in the first place.
I wanted Richmond because the gears are the best. I don't believe these are specific "racing" gears unless all richmond gears are for racing only. I hear you on the posi, but that's more money. If I go that route then I should get a whole rear end with disk brakes off a junker. Then I have to re-do my brakes so I could use the rear disks. This can add up rather quickly. I do understand you're saying.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,918
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Richmonds are not "the best" necessarily; they are a good quality part, but no better really than the other brands I listed.
DO NOT use the drag-race specific ones!!!! Don't count on "believe": no matter how strongly you "believe" something, doesn't make it so. Get the facts, FOR CERTAIN, before you leap.
It may seem expensive to get a whole rear. On the other hand, if you spend money like you're talking about on an inferior one, then when you get done, you'll have ...... an inferior one still, and alot less money left to get a decent one with.
Your plan is not wise.
DO NOT use the drag-race specific ones!!!! Don't count on "believe": no matter how strongly you "believe" something, doesn't make it so. Get the facts, FOR CERTAIN, before you leap.
It may seem expensive to get a whole rear. On the other hand, if you spend money like you're talking about on an inferior one, then when you get done, you'll have ...... an inferior one still, and alot less money left to get a decent one with.
Your plan is not wise.
- as my qoute says in my sig:
"If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?"
- richmond gears are NOT the best for street, even if you're getting the regular gears instead of the race only "Pro" gears. Richmond gears are harder to set-up correctly and, even when set-up right, they tend to whine. All this translates to more $ for proper set-up, and a noisy rear when done. I'd highly reccomend looking into Yukon, Motive, Superior, or Precision. I beat the hell outta the Yukon's in my 4x4 and they're great gears.
- I also agree with finding a posi unit or atleast running a 3-series gear with a spacer so that later-on it's much cheaper. Since you're looking at 3.42 ratio, I'd be looking for a 4th gen rear with disc brakes. Many 4th gen rears are 3.42posi. You're wheels would stick out a little further, but if you do a search you'll find the pics, and it's not bad(usually square with the body lip)
"If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?"
- richmond gears are NOT the best for street, even if you're getting the regular gears instead of the race only "Pro" gears. Richmond gears are harder to set-up correctly and, even when set-up right, they tend to whine. All this translates to more $ for proper set-up, and a noisy rear when done. I'd highly reccomend looking into Yukon, Motive, Superior, or Precision. I beat the hell outta the Yukon's in my 4x4 and they're great gears.
- I also agree with finding a posi unit or atleast running a 3-series gear with a spacer so that later-on it's much cheaper. Since you're looking at 3.42 ratio, I'd be looking for a 4th gen rear with disc brakes. Many 4th gen rears are 3.42posi. You're wheels would stick out a little further, but if you do a search you'll find the pics, and it's not bad(usually square with the body lip)
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