Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Removal of the clutch master and slave cynlinder.

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Old May 15, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #1  
91RS5speed's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 330
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From: Duluth, Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Auburn Pro / 3.42
Removal of the clutch master and slave cynlinder.

Do I pull them both up or do they go down? Whats the best way to do this. I could cut the line and easly get it out. But I need to put a new one back in. I have slp 1 3/4 inch headers will thoughs make problems? Should i move the stearing shaft to make it easyer? Thanks
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Old May 15, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #2  
km7152's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 76
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From: Middletown, RI
Car: 1991 Camaro Rs
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Im sure this isnt exactly what your looking for, but it might save you a few headaches. Don't make the mistake of pressing the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder is unbolted from the bellhousing My slave unclipped from the hydraulic hosing, and that came out from the bottom. I would guess once you unbolt the cylinder from the brake booster, it could just be pulled from the top. Only thing im not sure of is how it connects to pedal, im pretty sure through an input rod that just unbolts.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 04:22 PM
  #3  
walrus108's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 131
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From: Georgetown, TX
Car: 1989 GTA White Hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Don't understand exactly what your asking but I'd love to help. I have become very framiliar with these in the past 6 months. You have to usually pop the res. tank off the hose to slide the hose through the frame and the brake booster. There are 2 boltson the bellhousing and the slave slides out. There and also 2 bolts holding the master to the floorboard/pedal assembly. These are inside the car. Then undo the clip from the clutch rod and use a screwdriver to pop it off the clutch pedal. Then the whole master and rod slide out through the floorboard. Hope that helps.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:27 PM
  #4  
km7152's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 76
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From: Middletown, RI
Car: 1991 Camaro Rs
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Sounds good to me, i was lacking the area on the clutch pedal though, good to know.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #5  
91RS5speed's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Auburn Pro / 3.42
Were you able to get it under the stearing collum? It kept getting stuck for me.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #6  
walrus108's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 131
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From: Georgetown, TX
Car: 1989 GTA White Hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Yeah, getting that rod to end up in not on the wrong side of wires ans in the right clear area can be hard by yourself. It took me like 6 trys of pushing it in then going around and checking. It helps to have someone to try to guide it in while on their backs on the floorboard while you slowly push it in. Feed the u bolt in while your helper starts the threads. When I did it myself I also used longer regular bolts to feed through. Good luck.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 08:27 PM
  #7  
VetteC5RFrEak's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
Car: 1989 Camaro RS (w/Z28 tags)
Engine: 305CID TBI
Transmission: Manual - T-5
Axle/Gears: Stock
I actually just performed that install on mine. I wasn't the one who took it out however, my Dad did. he took out the brake booster, 4 bolts holding it ot the firewall, 2 to the reservoir. Then you can easily access the master cylinder. just unbole the 2 bolts holding it into the firewall, undo the slave cylinder and then you can slide the slave clyinder up and out of the car still attached to the master cylinder. This is probably too late however.

- Chris
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