Removal of the clutch master and slave cynlinder.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Auburn Pro / 3.42
Removal of the clutch master and slave cynlinder.
Do I pull them both up or do they go down? Whats the best way to do this. I could cut the line and easly get it out. But I need to put a new one back in. I have slp 1 3/4 inch headers will thoughs make problems? Should i move the stearing shaft to make it easyer? Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, RI
Car: 1991 Camaro Rs
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Im sure this isnt exactly what your looking for, but it might save you a few headaches. Don't make the mistake of pressing the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder is unbolted from the bellhousing
My slave unclipped from the hydraulic hosing, and that came out from the bottom. I would guess once you unbolt the cylinder from the brake booster, it could just be pulled from the top. Only thing im not sure of is how it connects to pedal, im pretty sure through an input rod that just unbolts.
My slave unclipped from the hydraulic hosing, and that came out from the bottom. I would guess once you unbolt the cylinder from the brake booster, it could just be pulled from the top. Only thing im not sure of is how it connects to pedal, im pretty sure through an input rod that just unbolts. Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, TX
Car: 1989 GTA White Hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Don't understand exactly what your asking but I'd love to help. I have become very framiliar with these in the past 6 months. You have to usually pop the res. tank off the hose to slide the hose through the frame and the brake booster. There are 2 boltson the bellhousing and the slave slides out. There and also 2 bolts holding the master to the floorboard/pedal assembly. These are inside the car. Then undo the clip from the clutch rod and use a screwdriver to pop it off the clutch pedal. Then the whole master and rod slide out through the floorboard. Hope that helps.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, TX
Car: 1989 GTA White Hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Yeah, getting that rod to end up in not on the wrong side of wires ans in the right clear area can be hard by yourself. It took me like 6 trys of pushing it in then going around and checking. It helps to have someone to try to guide it in while on their backs on the floorboard while you slowly push it in. Feed the u bolt in while your helper starts the threads. When I did it myself I also used longer regular bolts to feed through. Good luck.
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
Car: 1989 Camaro RS (w/Z28 tags)
Engine: 305CID TBI
Transmission: Manual - T-5
Axle/Gears: Stock
I actually just performed that install on mine. I wasn't the one who took it out however, my Dad did. he took out the brake booster, 4 bolts holding it ot the firewall, 2 to the reservoir. Then you can easily access the master cylinder. just unbole the 2 bolts holding it into the firewall, undo the slave cylinder and then you can slide the slave clyinder up and out of the car still attached to the master cylinder. This is probably too late however.
- Chris
- Chris
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