Allright, I'm currently swapping out my drum brake rear-end for a PBR disc/3.73 posi rear.

Well, I'm having a problem getting to the e-brake cables. I have an aftermarket torque arm, a Jegs one that includes a tunnel brace. I can't get to the e-brake cables without pulling off the tunnel brace, and to do that I basically have to pull apart my whole interior to get to the screws that the bolts go onto so I can actually remove the brace. I really don't wanna do this, so I was gonna just run without e-brake cables for a while, but I can't even figure out a way to disconnect those anywhere along there. My plan was to go over my firends house afterwards (he's got a lift) and then hook up the new e-brake cables. However, there isn't anyway to even disconnect these anywhere. There's some special fittings in a few places along the cable, but I can't figure out a way to pull them apart.

Does anyone know a simpler way to do this without pulling off the whole brace and basically pulling out my seats and carpet? Or is there a way to disconnect the cable temporarily?

-Thanks, Brandon

 

You could disconnect the cables from the drum end by removing the end of the cable from the p-brake assembly and compressing the clip that holds the cable sheath to the backing plate.

 

Do you know of any other acceptable places to remove it? It'd be way to long I think if I disconnected it there.

 

I'm not familiar with the tunnel brace you mentioned. Can you get to the p-brake cable adjuster over the driveshaft?

 

Yep, I actually just pulled out the driveshaft.

 

You should be able to loosen the adjuster enough to slip the cable out of the trough it sits in. You should be able to then compress the cable clips on the body (under the rear seats) and remove the cables from the car that way. They'll stay attached the the rearend.

EDIT: I don't remember if the cables run over the exhaust. That would require taking one loose from the drum.

 

Allright, I'll go try that and see if it works out and I can get it off.

 

Well I can see the stud for the adjuster, but I can't get to the nut and turn it well enough, so that's out of the question.