Hear the one about the broken driveshaft bolt?
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 107
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From: Orlando
Car: Fox Body+Third Gen Cam
Engine: a few
Transmission: few more
Hear the one about the broken driveshaft bolt?
I'm pissed. I'm trying to get the tailshaft housing off to fix my messed up speedo drive gear. So I remove torque arm, now proceed to loosen driveshaft bolts. First one snaps off half way in. DOH now what? This is probably the one thing that makes me more mad than anything else on a car.
So should I see if I can snap off the rest
and then drill it out or something? Should I keep it easy for now and just leave it like that. Will it cause any prob leaving the one broken off head? I dont need a speedo at all really.
Ok so I tinkered some more. The other three bolts removed without a problem. Before the first one broke I did find that one of the two holding that half moon clip for the D/S was loose and wasnt even clamping it down. I'm thinking about going out and getting a left handed drill bit and maybe a map gas torch. I've been wanting that torch for awhile.
If all else fails I can always just weld the a dadgum stud into the hole and put a nut to tighten down the clip.
I pulled out the D/S but now I'm afraid to try and loosen the 4 tailshaft housing bolts for fear of breakage. Thats something that'd mess me up pretty good. Seems like they are torqued on pretty tight.
So should I see if I can snap off the rest
and then drill it out or something? Should I keep it easy for now and just leave it like that. Will it cause any prob leaving the one broken off head? I dont need a speedo at all really.Ok so I tinkered some more. The other three bolts removed without a problem. Before the first one broke I did find that one of the two holding that half moon clip for the D/S was loose and wasnt even clamping it down. I'm thinking about going out and getting a left handed drill bit and maybe a map gas torch. I've been wanting that torch for awhile.
If all else fails I can always just weld the a dadgum stud into the hole and put a nut to tighten down the clip.
I pulled out the D/S but now I'm afraid to try and loosen the 4 tailshaft housing bolts for fear of breakage. Thats something that'd mess me up pretty good. Seems like they are torqued on pretty tight.
Last edited by FoxRodder; May 26, 2006 at 12:06 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally Posted by FoxRodder
I saw what looked like a pretty big nut there holding that on. Think a breaker bar would take her off?
That part is still replaceable though. Never taken mine apart there, but others have. A bolt extractor might get it out, and may not require retapping the hole.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 107
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From: Orlando
Car: Fox Body+Third Gen Cam
Engine: a few
Transmission: few more
Yea I've never heard how that comes off. I've used those easy outs twice...the first time, and the last time! BAHAHA...but seriously after that sucker broke fuggedaboutit.
I'm thinking I can drown it in PB blaster for a few days, then get a left handed drill bit as small as possible to try and not ruin the threads if at all possible and take it from there. Seems to me that I could get along with only 3 of the bolts because like I said one wasnt even tight at first. We'll see I guess. Guess I'll be forced to drive the BADASSFIVEPOINTOH for a few days....freakin torture!
I'm thinking I can drown it in PB blaster for a few days, then get a left handed drill bit as small as possible to try and not ruin the threads if at all possible and take it from there. Seems to me that I could get along with only 3 of the bolts because like I said one wasnt even tight at first. We'll see I guess. Guess I'll be forced to drive the BADASSFIVEPOINTOH for a few days....freakin torture!
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 998
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
Three bolts will just end up bending the strap missing the bolt then either the u-joint will break or more likely the driveshaft will just fall out and smash up everything it hits under your car.
I'd go for the left handed bits just get it as close to center as possible. Also don't use too small of a bit or it won't grab. If you screw up the threads you will need to tap it out. Nothing wrong with putting the next size bigger bolt in there if it comes to it.
As far as MAPP goes if you have the money look for a used oxy-acetyline setup. I've bought three of the locally. One for $100 another for $90 both the mid-size ones (about 2.5-3ft tall) with tanks, gas, regulators, hoses, a cutting tip, and a heating tip. I got a set of the big ones for $200 with a heavy duty cart, a bunch of tips, and a 25ft hose.
I'd go for the left handed bits just get it as close to center as possible. Also don't use too small of a bit or it won't grab. If you screw up the threads you will need to tap it out. Nothing wrong with putting the next size bigger bolt in there if it comes to it.
As far as MAPP goes if you have the money look for a used oxy-acetyline setup. I've bought three of the locally. One for $100 another for $90 both the mid-size ones (about 2.5-3ft tall) with tanks, gas, regulators, hoses, a cutting tip, and a heating tip. I got a set of the big ones for $200 with a heavy duty cart, a bunch of tips, and a 25ft hose.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 107
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From: Orlando
Car: Fox Body+Third Gen Cam
Engine: a few
Transmission: few more
Yea I think I'll end up doing some drilling. I was wondering, since the threads appear to be going all the way from front to back, is it possible for that piece of bolt to go out the rear the same as the front? I could maybe use a standard bit and try to twist it to the rear? I may just have to get a tap next size up.
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