Ok guys, I have my Th350 almost done. I am down to installing the Forward/Direct drum assembly. It drops in so far. It contacts the sunshell notches, but does not seat fully. Will it fall into place if I keep turning it?

I also ended up with a extra sets of clutches. I matched up all the clutches and went from 4 to 5 in the direct drum. Maybe just a mixup? Or am I missing something?

I need help guys so I can finish it and get to the track.

thanks.

 

- yes and no. Turning, shaking, etc. You have to get all the clutches lined-up, plus he sunshell(which you said is).
- some models took more clutches than others. Some apply pistons and drums were different. Shorter apply pistons/larger drums allow for more clutches. As long as your install heights/thicknesses(usually measured installed via a feeler gauge) were correct, you're good to go.
- Now the really fun part. Once you get the drum seated properly you install the pump and check input shaft end-play. If it not correct, you get to take the pump and drum back out, change the shim(by however much needed) and re-install....actually its been awhile since I did a t350, you might not have to pull the drum to change shims....CRS again!

 

Yeah, its lined up in the sunshell notches. It just likes maybe a 1/4 inch being seated. I think the last 2 clutches are holding it off.

I check the kit from Probuilt. It only has 4 sets of clutches. I ended up with 5 sets of clutches and steels. Alto drop shipped some of the parts straight to my house. They may have made a mistake. The extra clutches dosent resemble any of the ones I took out.

The direct clutch assembly was the one that went from 4 clutches to 5. I had the piston put on a lathe to get the clearance. I have .065 maybe .070
clearance. The rest had either 3 or 5 clutches.

So I should be able to spin, shake the direct/forward clutch assembly and it will line up. I just need to fiddle with it. It was hot in the garage that day and I was getting tired. I figured no fan mean no dust/dirt which I dont want in the trans.

 

Yeah, probably just a plate or two holding you up. It can be frustrating. Sometimes they just won't have it. Take a break, drink another beer and come back w/o the hammer....
- otherwise, sounds like you're good to go.

 

This has been the first trans I have ever built. I have tried to do the research and I also have a hanes rebuild manual. I have talked to Dana at Probuilt about things and to local trans shops.

I cant say that I havent made a few mistakes. I did tear a seal on the direct clutch piston. Ended up having to buy a paper/rubber kit for $15 just for that one seal. lol.

It has been some work and has took some time, but I have enjoyed doing it. Its good to learn something new.

I just hope it all pays off at the track.

 

I've got the haynes chevy auto manual, but the ATSG manuals are awesome. THey're more in-dpth and more detailed, but they're model specific, so you'd need a different book if you tried a different trans.

 

Thats what I liked about the haynes manual. It comver most of GM's autos.

I also printed off a tech article from carcraft on the TH350 build. It had a good tip using 2 studs to align the pump halfs. It also had a few good pics and a breakdown of the parts.

I just need to remember to either get a new pan or put a drain plug in the one I have. Trans pans without drain plugs suck!!! Why GM didnt put drains in the 700R4 and TH350???

 

some th350 pans have a drain plug from the factory. they quit installing them and didn't install them on the 700's because they were an extra scource for a possible leak. plus you don't change tranny fluid as often as you do your oil.

BTW, you don't have to remaove the forward/direct drums so set your endplay if you don't get it right the first time, just the pump. to make it easier to do, leave the outer o-ring off the pump till you get your endplay set, then take the pump back out and install the o-ring after.

 

Yeah, I have seen some with the plugs. I just hate having to drop the pan with it full of fluid. Its just so much simpler with a plug.

Thanks for the advice on the pump and checking the endplay.

 

yeah, it is much more simple with a drain plug. cleaner too

your welcome. always glad to pass along hints that have worked for me.

 

I messed with the trans a little this weekend. It still likes 1/16 inch being all the way down. I could see througth a hole that it is not resting in the bottom of the notches in the sunshell. It is suppose to be full seated in the notches right. I just cant seem to get it to go.

This is the only thing holding me up on the trans right now.

 

when the assembly fully seats, you will hear a distinct thud. i don't believe the lus sit all the way in the shell from what i've seen on the wear pattern on most of the shells at work but i'm not totally positive.

 

Should the direct/forward clutch assembly wobble at all from side to side?

I know when the pump goes in, it will support the input shaft. I will have to check it out somemore. It the lugs dont bottom out in the notches, then it might be all the way down.

I just need to be sure its right before I go ahead with the rest of the assembly.

 

yes, it will wobble some. if it is as close as you say it is, it is probably all the way down. lift up on the input shaft just a little and let the assembly drop. if there is a dull thunk, it is all the way down. i really don't think the lugs of the direct drum should sit all the way down in the notches of the shell.

 

Thanks, I will check it out this evening.

 

Ok, I got the direct/forward clutch assembly in. I am down to installing the pump. I put it in and had too much endplay with the thrust bearing and shim. I put a thicker shim under it and ended up with around 20-30k end play. When I started to torque the pump bolts down, the input shaft would not turn. It would before I tightened the bolts. It also changed the endplay.

Maybe I need to try a new shim under the bearing. The ones in the kit has a tang on them. The one under the bearing was only a smooth shim.

Whats going on? what should I try?

thanks

 

yeah, you will need a thinnner shim. you should at least be able to turn it
the shims in the kit that have a tang are just that manufactureres thing. the factory ones don't have it nor do most aftermarket ones. if the shim is thin enough, the tang won't make a difference. the is a notch cut in the stator support for it. the bearing on the back of the pump was the factory one in it wasn't it?

 

I matched up the bearing and replaced it with the new one in the kit. It looked identical. The shim under it was like 0.015 the new ones with the tangs are closer to .050 It had 3 with tangs and one with the bearing that was like the original.

With just the bearing and the original shim, the endplay was like 1/8". Everything turned ok. When I went to the thicker shim with the tang, the endplay was ok and it would spin. I went to tighten the bolts down, then it had no endplay and it would hardly spin. I am using the thickest shim. I have 2 others with tangs. I will try the thinest one with the tang. It is still about 4 times thicker than the stock one. If the pump wasnt fully down when I checked endplay with the stock shim, That may have made the difference. I did try it with the o-ring on the pump the first time. (I know you told me not to) I will try the other shims with the o-ring off and try to get the endplay between .015 and .030.

I also had problems with the sealing rings on the pump. The stock ones had locking notches and were metal. The new ones look like teflon and do not lock. They have wedges on the ends that overlap. I ended up mashing one because it caught as I put the pump in. I replaced it with one of the original sealing rings. This should be ok I hope.

 

- you have to have the pump tighten down when you check end-play. If you didn't have it fully tighten, then adding the shim and full tight may be too tight, which is probably your issue. The reason for doing this procedure w/o the o-ring is to make it easier to remove the pump. The o-ring doesn't/shouldn't effect end-play unless somethings screwy...

 

ok, I will start with the thin stock shim and go from there. I must have misread the Haynes manual on that step. I thought you checked endplay without the bolts in it. This may be the whole problem. Thanks I will try to get to work on it tonight.

 

Well I got the pump in and the endplay adjusted. I ended up using the thin shim. I got the valvebody on and im just about done.

I just hope I got everything right. I check and double checked everything as I went. I dont know that im ready to build another one real soon.

I guess it would have went better if I had more time. Working a few hours every 4 to 5 days take awhile to get done.

Thanks guys for all the advice. I just hope it all pays off at the track.