how do you guys feel about synthetic atf. After i rebuild my tranny should i use synthetic right away or break it in with regular atf first.

 

I've never personally seeen long term after effects of running synthteics as far as clutch wear, but if it's anything like how engine guts look after running synthetics there is much to look forward too.

In the racing world there is a noticable temp drop running synthetic over dino oil, typipcal 10-15* temp drop and most guys switch to synthetics after having heating problems and are so pleased with the temp reduction they never go back.

You'll be fine either way, you'll be fine running synthetic right off the bat also. Unless you have a tranny guage to keep things in check and notice a difference I'd probably stick with dino oil based instead of man made to keep costs down, but if cost really does'nt matter then go synthetic.

 

700R4? - don't run sythetic. It allows slippage. I had a trans I built, thought it was taking a crap after about 2k, slip under accel, skip shift, etc. Tore it down, couldn't find anything wrong. Checked, re-check, triple checked. All friction was in good shape, plates had no wear/warpage, vb was all in good shape. Put it back together, put regular Dexron III in, 40k ago, no issues since.
- Trans I built for 4wd Tahoe did the same thing, so I switched it to regular fluid. Didn't take the trans out or anything, started working fine, has since.

I won't run sythetics in anything. I've seen the inside of high mileage Mobile 1 motors(3k oil changes, religiously) that were completely gummed up. Watched it take out 3 camshafts in a buddies boat. 15k miles on a buddies 02 Mustang GT, lost ring-seat. According to Ford, they've had that issue with motors running sythetics. - You can have all that crap.

 

allows for slippage? its suppose to cut heat down. as for the mobil 1 in engines, i run it in mine, im sorry but one of the only ways u are going to get sludge in your engine is if you run it too cold

 

195 t-stat and factory fan turn-on in a 87 Iroc 5.0TPI.- my uncle's car. I did intake gaskets @ 130k, and the cam valley was disgusting. - It was almost level with the lifter spider.
- sythetics supposedly do lower temps, but they're also slicker.
I was just commenting on my personal experiences with it. Do as you wish.

 

No, i am new to this and dont want to get myself in a bind from something i shouldnt of done, it is hard to tell what to do, its ok to go synthetic, no its not ok, b&m is a good kit, no b&m is junk, go with this company. SEE WHAT I MEAN. I am in the process of installing a b&m transkit in my tranny right now, not their shift improver, or their transpak

 

No matter what kinda fluid you use, drill and tap in a drain plug BEFORE you do anything! I took the shortcut, didn't have it done when I had my tranny out, and 2 months later I had to lose all the fluid cause my tranny went south and had to be rebuilt - it takes like 12 quarts to fill an empty one - $35 down the drain!

 

...so you're telling me you would've re-used fluid that was in a tranny that went south? -

 

It my circumstance, yes - because the tranny didn't go south, it was south already - I just couldn't tell behind the 305. I had just put new fluid and filter in, reinstalled the tranny with a 350, drove maybe 3 miles, it was slipping, parked it for 2 months to get the tranny removed and rebuilt - so the fluid had maybe 10 minutes run time and 3 miles on it.

 

no matter the mileage, from the moment you fired it till the moment you shut it off, the oil was being poluted. Verses the cost of a fresh trans, fluid is cheap.

 

Oh, I thought the pan drain would have kept your tranny from going south.