Ok, I'm trying to pull out the posi and gears from a 2000 4th gen rear. 3.42 to be exact if it makes a difference. Anyway I removed the keeper brackets and the little bolt in the posi unit and pulled the middle peice that keeps the axles from moving inward and I removed the U-rings that hold the axles in and then removed the axles themselves. Now this is where I need help. Am I missing something that is different than the 3rd gen posi rear?

I cannot even loosen the posi. In my rear, I do all of the above, and the posi almost slips out. Or is that a sign why my 3rd gen rear is bad, it shouldn't be removed that easy.

Please help.

 

4 bolts that hold the bearing caps in?

 

Those things were the first to get unbolted and put into a cup.

It was tougher to get out, but I just used brute strength, and Hercules styled, I lifted the rear and banged the other side of the rear against the conrete and out she came.

Now, I got to get the pinion gear out. How big is the bolt holding it in? Looks almost like 1.75 inches.

 

something huge alright... I think a 1 1/4" socket was needed to remove the nut off the pinion. You'll need something to hold the yoke still too, I made up a gizmo out of angle iron with 2 holes in it to bolt to the yoke, then stood on that, and used a beefy snipe to loosen the nut.... Turns out 20ft/lbs was about all it took to **remove** it the first time (ultra loose!), but tightening it back in later is where you'll use those tools.

 

The side bearings have considerable preload. Normally you use a case spreader to get it in and out. A prybar will work to get it out.

I remove pinion nuts with an inpact. You can put a u-joint strap on the yoke then use a prybar to keep it from turning while you loosen the nut. A special holding wrench bolts to the yoke and has a hole in the center for the socket. It's difficult but not impossible to tighten the pinion nut and crush the crush sleeve without one.

 

I got your special yoke holding tool...I call it a 36" pipe-wrench.

 

I use a 4' piece of ¼" x 1½" bar stock, with 2 holes near one edge; which I bolt to one of the U-joint cups with 2 of the U-joint bolts.

The nut is 1¼", like alot of GM rears in general. I use a BF breaker bar with a socket on that.