im pulling my hair out trying to find a cost effective way to get a driveshaft safety loop onto my tourqe arm, i know i want to replace the tourque arm, and spohn has the setup this way, but heck its spensive, plus i read it weighs more than the stock setup, and i dont really want an adjustable one, i just want some more beef under there......................i see bmr makes what looks like what id want but they say they wont weld a safety loop to their arm....................so im thinking bout ditching the whole loop idea all together and just getting the torque arm , seems like too much of a headache, and maybe something i dont even need, what yall think?

 

Jegs sells one that bolts to the floor. You might want to look take a look at it as I don't know if it will work with an aftermarket torque arm.

 

Get the third gen specific loop. It's shaped to clear any torque arm. The generic loop won't work.

JEGS High Performance - Lakewood Driveshaft Loops

You'll have to remove the front seats, carpet and center console if you want the mount bolts under the carpet for a cleaner look.

 

nah, i have one sitting in my garage i bought from performance suspension years ago, its red , and goes thru the floor....................i tried dumping it on ebay but noone bit.....................so its going in the trash unfortunately, for some reason i find bolting it thru the floor cheesy.......................so i wanted one on the arm.....................so here i am


heres a pic, i dont know what i was thinking when i bought it

 

I have Alston subframe connectors and I welded my driveshaft loop to them.

 

The guy who owned my car before me just welded onto the torq arm and piece of flat metal that was rolled into a somewhat half circle. I didn't like it so I cut it off, and I'm in the process of making one to work to my likings, but it's an idea for you.

 

Mine is crossmember mounted. - Most either mount to a x-member or the floor. Nothing cheesy about it. - Cheesy is watching a car do the ds poll-vault,...it's not pretty....
FYI - most of the reason to switch to an aftermarket torque arm is the adjustment. Pinion angle means a lot for traction and the factory leaves much lacking if you're lowered any.
- just mount the one you have and go with it, there's nothing wrong with that type, and it can easily save you from totaling the car....

 

how much do you want for it?

 

well i havent done any lowering, infact , i put in eibach front springs from an iroc to raise it some as i was bottoming out alot..............i dont see why i would need to change pinion angle, is this something most do? i put in aluminum lower control arms and that helped alot with traction, also, are sub frame connectors worth it? perhaps i should get hose as well and weld a loop to them? does anyone have a pic of what this looks like? and what loop you used? thanx

 

intersted in the d/s loop how much???????

 

email me if interested in loop, id like to keep this discussion about solving my problem , thanx wasp9166@yahoo.com

 

im going to get the alstons from tds along with steering brace, and use bmr torque arm..........................if you dont mind me asking , what loop did you use? i assume you have it on the passenger sfc? this is close enuff to do this?

 

Its the Jegster one from Jegs and its welded to both sides of the SFC's. Sorry I cant find my pic.

 

I got the spohn one and love it. Its like 30 bucks more then the universal and no drilling required

 

oh, that spohn one looks nice, didnt realize they had it seperate, however, is there any way to mount it without poly trans mount? i put in one of those once and couldnt stand the vibrations it transferred so i removed it quick...........

 

Not that I know of. In all reality I noticed no differance going to poly mount. Smooth as silk

 

I have solution that worked for me.

Weld a piece of flat steel of the same gauge as the stamped TQ to the TQ arm on the side that faces the drive shaft.

The piece you weld in should be cut to fit nicely in the inside coutours and be flush with the edges. Make it about 4 to 5 inches long.

Go buy a universal Summit DS saftey loop. The legs have numerous holes in them. The two half ovals have 2 holes per side and 4 holes per half.

Bolt the legs to the half oval, use the extra holes on the leg as a fixture to drill extra holes in the half ovals on the loop side for more mounting options.

Put the tQ arm in car and install drive shaft. Get the half oval and see where it needs to bolt to the flat that you have welded. Mark the flat where you need to drill the holes.

Take out DS, take out tq arm and drill some strait holes of the same size as the ones in the loops.

Reinstall

Bolt in half loop and position in where you need it. so you have clearence. Take it out weld two halfs together and bolt to tq arm. You can get the suppliend nuts behind the plate with an open end wrench. The supplied bolts will have to be shortened, I shorted my loop so it is now closer to round for more chassis and exhaust clearence. I also flet that a closer fit would be safe in the event of a u joint failure.

Install ds.

You have now plated the tq arm. Th