my dad and i just installed a t56 in my 92 z and there is one thing i cant figure out. we got it in a driveable state but my clutch engagement point is so close to the top of the pedal it is almost hard to drive, plus it feels like it might not be engaging all the way. can i move theslave out farther on the studs to solve this? anyone had this problem with their swap? i did some searching and reading and havn't found anything like it so far. i would appreciate any help i could get on this.

and by the way, im amazed at how much info you can fnd on this site, its great!!

 

If you used the 3rd gen pedals, then that's how it comes out. The leverage of the pedal on the master cyl is different; in effect, the ENTIRE throw of the slave cyl, is accomplished by about HALF the throw of the master. So that's normal: the clutch always disengages with relatively little pedal travel, and the pedal is REAL stiff.

Most likely, it's engaging just fine.

No you can't move the slave, or change the length of the rod, or any of that. The whole deal is self-adjusting. It will just compensate for whatever you do, up to however much travel it has. That's NOT the way to deal with these.

 

i ended up using the 4th gen brake and clutch, but when i first tried putting it in gear the car would lurch forward, so i loosened the slave to move it out on the studs until it stopped lurching forward. is there any other way this could be happening? it is relly a PITA trying to drive the car like that

and the pedal is not very stiff, i dont know if that would help any or not

 

Something is not put together right. Check your work. Make sure the fork is on its pivot right, and that the other end is on the fork right.

I'm assuming that this is a T-56 from 94-97; the LT1 version. Is it?

There's no reason for it to need to be any different from how it was made. They work fine when put together right, except for the "leverage" mismatch as described. Which doesn't occur if you happened to use 4th gen pedals (you didn't say which ones you've got).

 

i got the tranny from a 97 ss, i never took the fork off. i had it rebuilt and then we installed it, everything came out of that car from the pedals to the flywheel. i kept the gas pedal the same (from the third gen)
are you suggesting i take it all apart again and check the fork?
what would happen if i just looseden the slave and moved it out on the studs of the bellhousing? wouldnt that move the engagement point? would that work until i had time to take it apart again?

by the way, i do appreciae the help and advice you have given me thus far. thank you

 

No.Nothing. The hydraulics will simply self-adjust, and take up whatever change you just made; up until the point that the rod simply falls out of the cylinder.

If you look at things from the transmission's and the clutch's point of view, you haven't actually CHANGED anything at all. All you've done, assuming you did it right, is unwrapped some 97 model sheet metal off of it, and re-wrapped it in some 92 sheet metal. And I can assure you, the parts DO NOT CARE what sheet metal they're wrapped in; so just doing that, by itself, doesn't all of a sudden make them not work right any more. In the immortal words of Chevy Chase, "BE the clutch" ("BE the ball, Danny").

I hate to be the bearer of bad news; but something is put together wrong. If it was put together right, i.e. just like it used to be, it would work just like it used to work, i.e. right. The only reasonable explanation for why it doesn't work right, is that it's put together wrong.

See my signature for helpful troubleshooting advice (even if it's not always what you want to hear).

 

Did this problem happened with the 3rd gen peddles? You sure there is no air in the lines, like does it feel real soft for the first little bit?

Also forget about moving the slave part around your just going to have the end pop off.

 

it was not a problem when the i still had the 5 speed in the car, the engagement point wa probably half way down or so. currently with the t56 the pedal starts out a little hard but gets softer after it passes the engagement point. i am completely confused on this problem but am worried that the clutch is slipping and prematurely wearing. if you have any other ideas im all ears, especially since i dont have time to take it apart right now and check everything

 

Get the air out of the hydraulic system then put the slave back how it is suppose to be and see if that helps any. I'am guessing your using the 4th gen master and slave setup, if so I want you to take the slave off and point it at a 45* angle with the rod facing down then I want you to start pumping the slave tell she starts to get really hard, this is how you get the air out. Basically the air bubbles travel up the system as your pumping, I'am pretty sure this is your problem.

 

My clutch engagement point is very high as well, like half an inch or so of pedal travel to engage/disengage the clutch. I had a T5 and re-used my third gen pedals. Evidently this is normal with the t56 swap and third gen pedals, I see you are using fourth gen pedals, don't know about them.

I did some searching around on here and found a couple of people who had either redrilled hole on the pedal where the piviot pin goes through, or cut a section out of the rod that goes to the master cylinder and installed a threaded sleeve, turnbuckle type thing to make it adjustable. There was also a lot of discussion/arguing back and forth that these do or don't actually change anything, or you are masking the problem, whatever. The amount of pedal travel didn't actually change, but the pedal was set closer to the floor to make the driver feel like the pedal travel what more what they were accustomed to. Keep searching, there were even pictures and diagrams on how to do both of these things.

I haven't done anything, just gotten used to the short pedal travel. Makes for easier speed shfting, but I sometimes forget to take it all the way to the floor to start, for the neutral safety switch. It could be moved though.
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Aren't the 4 gen master and slave cylinder supposed to be "self bleeding" pump em a couple times gets all the air out?

Were the master and slave cylinder disconnected at some point?

You shouldn't have to disassemble the whole thing to check the fork. It has a little inspection window, you will have to remove the slave cyl and the metal cup it is mounted to, but then you should be able to handle the fork and feel it it is fully engaged on the post or is resting on the detent position. I wouldn't think it would grab the throwout bearing if it were on the detent spot however.

Sorry, I just did some searching and realized that Tony89GTA and Sofakingdom were the ones to set people straight on what works and why pedal travel is short. Listen to them, not me. Their insight is what I looked to while doing my swap.

 

i would like to thank all of you for the help in trying to figure this out. bleeding it sounds like a good idea. i never disconnected the master and slave, but who knows if it was done when it was taken out of the donor car (i had it shipped to me). i hope this will take care of the problem, but if it's not this there is always something else to try and work on or figure out

thanks again for all the help and i will update this thread as soon as i have had a chance to try bleeding it

 

i would like to thank all of you for the help in trying to figure this out. bleeding it sounds like a good idea. i never disconnected the master and slave, but who knows if it was done when it was taken out of the donor car (i had it shipped to me). i hope this will take care of the problem, but if it's not this there is always something else to try and work on or figure out

thanks again for all the help and i will update this thread as soon as i have had a chance to try bleeding it

 

i would like to thank all of you for the help in trying to figure this out. bleeding it sounds like a good idea. i never disconnected the master and slave, but who knows if it was done when it was taken out of the donor car (i had it shipped to me). i hope this will take care of the problem, but if it's not this there is always something else to try and work on or figure out

thanks again for all the help and i will update this thread as soon as i have had a chance to try bleeding it

 

i would like to thank all of you for the help in trying to figure this out. bleeding it sounds like a good idea. i never disconnected the master and slave, but who knows if it was done when it was taken out of the donor car (i had it shipped to me). i hope this will take care of the problem, but if it's not this there is always something else to try and work on or figure out

thanks again for all the help and i will update this thread as soon as i have had a chance to try bleeding it

 

i would like to thank all of you for the help in trying to figure this out. bleeding it sounds like a good idea. i never disconnected the master and slave, but who knows if it was done when it was taken out of the donor car (i had it shipped to me). i hope this will take care of the problem, but if it's not this there is always something else to try and work on or figure out

thanks again for all the help and i will update this thread as soon as i have had a chance to try bleeding it

 

well it seems as though i got it right. i went out tonight and bled it and found out just how hard it is to push that rod into the slave. all i did was pull it forward about 25ft into the garage and i noticed an immediate difference in the engagement point. i will be testing it tomorrow to see if it grabs better now and stopped slipping. thanks again to everyone in this thread that gave me advice, i really apreciate it

 

Did bleeding the system work?

 

not really, i think the hydraulics are bad, i bled them and the problem came back but i think i have other problems also

 

from what i've read, there is no fix for the high engagement point with the t56 hydraulics and the 3rd gen pedals, but only to replace the 3rd gen pedals with the 4th gen pedals.....then clutch engagement will feel to be in a normal place?

unless its my brakes getting hot, i swear i smell the clutch burning after a good beating session on the fatmaro, which is entirely possable, but still can't help but think "what if its my clutch, it does smell like clutch"

 

my t56 has a burning smell after a good beating as well, mcleoud clutch disk

 

There is a fix just make your master adjustable, here is the link scroll down more to the middle https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ghlight=master

Also yeah that's probably your clutch