OK, I know this is beaten to death,but I just want to verify what I have read in the searches I have done. I have a 383 that has been built from a 1989 1pc rms block. This engine is going in a 1991 Z-28 that was equipt with a 305 TPI 5 speed.( no engine or trans in car now) The pedals, clutch master and slave are still in the car. Now to verify what I have read.
1: I need a 94-97 T-56 WITH bellhousing
2: 94-97 flywheel,cluch,pressure plate, and pilot bearing
3: new crossmember and torque arm or ability to mount torque arm (spohn or looking at Skulte LT cross member,using hooker SC long tubes)
4: A longer line from the clutch master to the slave(or 4th gen master and slave with braided line)
In my searches, I have read that using the third gen pedal setup that clutch engagement/disengagement is very high on the pedal but can be remedied by modifying the slave in someway? (Alittle explaination on this mod please.) I can use the existing driveshaft. Modification of the floor in the car. Anything that I am Missing. Thanks for the help. Did alot of searching.Hope I'm pretty close.

 

You can re-use your torque arm. It will bolt right in place, and a little side note the T56 uses the same torque arm mount as a 3rd gen V6 T5. I don't belive you can remedy the clutch engagement point by modifing the slave as the hydraulics automaticly adjust, but i have heard people chaning the master attach point to the pedle or legnth of rod. i'm not sure if they work i plan on just dealing with te high shift point. Also generaly you can't use long tube headers with a manual tranny in third gens, they have clearnace issues and will be way to close the slave cylinder. you can convert to the intrigal slave/throwout bearing like the LS1's, i'm not sure how to do it though.

 

Interesting, I didn't catch the problems with the use of long tubes. Can anyone chime in about the LS-1 throw out/master mod?. Anyone using LT's with a T-56? Solutions to the LT clearance problem?

 

I seem to recall someone posting up some pics of a T-56 swap in a car with longtubes. I think the driver side header had to be modified a little to clear the clutch slave cylinder. I didn't want to deal with the intereference, and the resulting lack of ground clearance, so I just went with shorty headers.

If you want to use the LS1 style clutch hydros with the hydraulic throwout bearing, you'll need to have a '98+ trans. It has it's pros and cons. You get to use a conventional push-style clutch which is cheaper than the LT1 pull-style, but you'll have to buy some extra parts when you do the swap and you'll need to shorten your driveshaft.

The LT1 trans is almost a bolt-in swap. The only modification that the floorpan requires is extending the factory shifter hole rearward by about an inch and a half. I've run both the 3rd gen and the 4th gen pedals and I recommend using the 4th gen pedals. Everything just lines up better that way.

And of course there's the speedo issue.

 

Or you could use the aftermarket T56 that is set up to use a T5 bellhousing, pedals, and slave. You would still need the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, bearings, and crossmember. You can get all the T5 stuff, if you don't already have it, from Hawks.

 

As for the flywheel, I just need a neutral balance for a 93-97 LT1? The engine I have built is internally balanced. Why do the 4th gen pedals work better? Thanks for all of the replies!

 

I know hooker 2210 long tubes clear no problem just there lower to the ground.

 

i have just completed this swap and will give my advice,at least for what its worth anyway
i would definatly go with the 4th gen pedals, the rod of the new master does not fir on the 3rd gen pedals without sometype of mod that i did not try sop i dont know what would need to be done. i will warn you putting the hydraulics in with an engine in the car is a bitch because the slave and master do not disconnest, it barely fit between my header and the firewall.
i got a crossmember and torque arm that attaches to the crossmember from spohn, but ive had a lot of problems with it and the thing that it hits. the crossmember does lower ground clearance, figured that out the hard way. be careful if your car is already lowered, my dad actually cut some of the crossmember off so i could actually drive the car.
i will also say that if you happen to have a high engagement point with the 4th gen pedals and hydraulics installed, bleed them. i just now finished bleeding mine and wha a difference it made to the engagement point from just moving it into the garage.
if you need anything else i will be happy to answer any questions i can. i also went from a 5 speed to the t56, so i might have some different insight than those who went from an auomatic, but maybe not. any more questions just send me a pm, it will be faster and i might forget to check this thread

btw, you do have to use 4th gen hydraulics, 3rd gen hydraulics with a longer line wont work, im pretty sure they wont at least

good luck with it whenever you do it

and i forgot, i would not use the aftermarket t56 that will fit the 3rd gen hydraulics. it still has the .6something final ratio, which was unappealing to me, and it uses a mechanical speedo, which i dont have.

 

The factory LT1 flywheel will work fine if your engine is internally balanced. The 4th gen pedals work better because the stud on the pedal arm that the master cylinder rod connects to is in a different location. Using the LT1 pedals and hydros keeps the geometry right. The T5 and T56 hydro setups also use different types of bushing at the end of the master cyl. rod.

It is possible to use the 3rd gen hydros with an LT1 braided steel hose, but you'll have to grind the ridge off the tips of the fittings on the line. It's also hard to get that braided hose without paying for the whole hydraulic assembly.

 

I have a high engagement piont. How do i get rid of it? Do I need to bleed it? How do i bleed it?