i got the flywheel for my T-5 resurfaced they took .040 off of it do i need a shim and if so how thick and where can i get it at.

 

never heard of a flywheel shim.. if the flywheel gets cut, it got cut.. just make sure you dont grind the springs on the clutch disk against the flywheel bolts..

 

TCI auto has .030 flywheel shims for chevrolet.It says on their website for auto or Standard shift.I would recommend shimming it.http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Flywheels/

 

That's for starter clearance
I've never heard of shimming your flywheel to make up for lost material when having it machined. Just run it as is.

 

You know, I'd never heard of a flywheel shim either until I bought a resurfaced T5 flywheel from TKO500 on here a couple of years ago. I bought one of the lightweight, Iroc style T5 flywheels from him that he had resurfaced, and he sent me a shim with it. He said they gave him the shim when he picked the flywheel up after having it resurfaced. It might have something to do with the hydrualic clutch setup being non-adjustable I guess. Who knows for sure. I've had the flywheel resurfaced in my 69 Camaro a couple of times, and they never gave me a special shim for that. The shim I got with the T5 flywheel is round with the correct bolt holes for a 1 pc. RMS crank. It's supposed to go between the back of the flywheel and the crank flange. I haven't used that flywheel yet since I haven't done my manual trans conversion yet, but I figure I'll use the shim when I do put it in. Might as well.

 

well i have an lt1 t56 and put a new clutch in it in march with a resurfaced flywheel. the clutch is now slipping and has been for a month or so. so now i have to replace probebly both the clutch and flywheel again

long story short - i would probebly use the shim just in case. if it is too hard to shift or put in gear than take it out - no big deal

 

i learned about hyrdo clutch systems over this past year due to my car not going into gear easy. what happens is when you shave the flywheel you are decreasing the fork travel reqd to put the trans into gear thus making it hard or impossible to do so. the shims push the flywheel out so the fork can have the proper travel.
another method of overcoming this is getting an adj pivot ball sold by summit. this will put the fork at the proper spot to achieve the correct travel but might req a time or 2 of trial and error. measuring the stock pivot and adding a bit will get ya there.
also, if ya have the stock GM flywheel and you decide to get a new unit you will need to get the rotating assy re balanced as the flywheel was balanced to that crank on the assy line at GM. notice the weight on one side when you have your flywheel off next time. the best advise is to get a nutural balanced flywheel and balance your rotating assy once and for all and then you can use any nuteral flywheel with no further issue.
i found out what happens when you replace the factory flywheel with a correct replacement, you wind up picking your teeth up off the floor mat.
i'll have a stock correct GM flywheel (used for about 15 miles) for sale soon as im yanking my motor to freshen it up and im going with a fidaza nutural balance flywheel.

 

I would've thought that by the time you took so much off a flywheel that there was a problem with clutch fork position, you'd be below the minimum thickness anyway.

 

i put my new GM fly next to my orig and laid a level on the new piece and i could slide a quater between the level and the orig fly. i'll look in my HELM book to see what min spec is.