Alright, did searches, found plenty of info, found a pic but its not easy to see and which part is correct, top or bottom? I did it like the bottom one, in the middle of the throwout bearing.



thanks
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this is a T-5 in a 92 RS 305

 

The bottom pic is the correct one.

There's a somewhat clearer pic in a post about 25 posts below this one, something about "89 hydraulic clutch".

Which did you use; a pilot bushing, or a pilot bearing? Did it go in easy?

 

did it the way it is in the 2nd pic, it has a pilot bushing, the one in the car wasnt worn at all, so I reused it and that wont keep a clutch from disengauging unless the car didnt have one and i could probably understand that. Did this type of tranny clutch before and no probs but this one doesnt wanna work rite. I got a new slave but before I blame it id rather see whats the real prob. Reservoir is full, the slave isnt broken, dont know why it wont let the clutch dissengage.
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but i did notice like on this pic that the black thin metal support that is apart of the fork, one side of it was broke on mine, not the fork itself but one of the black fingers, i guess thats what youd call it.



could that cause this?

 

If the pilot bushing or bearing binds on the transmission clutch gear, it produces EXACTLY the same effect as the clutch not releasing; the trans is still partly coupled to the engine.

People blame the hydraulics all the time for all sorts of things in these cars. I think that's mistaken. In my experience (which, granted, I've only had this car for 23 or 24 years, and it's only gone through about 3 or 4 of them in that time, and I've only swapped the transmission about 30 or 40 times and the clutch about 8 or 10 in various ways, so I could yet have something to learn) they either WORK, or they DON'T. Not much in between. And above all, if they haven't been taken apart and air let into the system somehow, then there's basically nothing to go wrong.

So I agree with you, it's almost certainly not the slave cylinder. I wouldn't bust it open on a wild goose chase.

If I was you, I'd check the assembly CAREFULLY. Like, make sure the fork is clipped onto the ball stud properly (that'll FOR SURE make it act like you're describing, if it's not); make sure the bolts that hold the slave cyl to the BH are tight; stuff like that. When something used to work, then you disturb it and it doesn't work right any more, the first thing that's suspect is always YOUR WORK. Go back and check your work.

And now I see your edit.... yes, that spring broken off the fork, can cause that. The purpose of the spring is to make sure that the operating surface of the clutch fork is ALWAYS held firmly against the operating surface of the TOB. Without that, there can be a BIG gap in there, which the fork will have to move that much extra before it can begin operating the clutch. It's DEFINITELY possible for that extra space to produce enough lost motion to where there's not enough travel left available to fully operate the clutch once all the slack is taken up. So you might want to just get a new fork.

 

This is a long shot, but I've seen a couple of new clutch assemblies where there's plastic spacers or a ring between the fingers and the pressure plate assembly that you're supposed to remove before installing the clutch. This is usually on the 3 finger, borg & beck style though, and I imagine you're most likely using a diaphragm style clutch. I doubt this will help your plight, but figured I'd throw it out there anyways.

 

actually, I pulled the trans again, replaced the clutch fork because it had a broken (the sheetmetal support fingers) finger and wouldnt engage all the way. I looked up into the bellhousing when someone pressed on the clutch and the pressure plate seems to disengage, not sure what the prob is. Can you buy longer rods? I think maybe its not pressing it down fully. I am going to try and replace the slave, other than that, everything was good. I noticed in the package, there was a pilot bearing and then something that looked just like the pilot bearing but was much bigger around and wouldnt fit in the crank, think it was for a diff vehicle using the same clutch. Other than this, car wont go i nto gear while idling, have to kill it to put it in gear, after that it will go in gear while you are driving, but once you stop, you have to kill it to get it in reverse or whatever, but once you are moving will go into gear. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

still no luck, where can i purchase a longer clutch slave rod

 

check your clutch pivot ball / stud . it's what the clutch arm pivots on . i had mine back out a bit , caused similar problems . you should not need a longer rod . if the pivot stud has backed out you will need a 3/8 allen . tough to get at with trans. in place . i cut off 1/2" from long end of allen wrench and put a 3/8 wrench on it and tightened it up . don't forget locktite . you may also may need a new slave cylinder [ i did ] .

 

any luck on fixing it?
im having the same problem

where did you buy your clutch and pressure plate from?