I just bought a used T-5 from a member on here. I want to take the top plate off and take a look inside, just to make sure everything is ok with it.

I am having a problem though. I have it un-bolted, but the shifter linkage is holding me up.

How do I separate it so I can remove the cover? It slides towards the front of the transmission a little, and then it hangs up.

Also, I need to know what color of speedometer gear I need.

I have the 145mph speedo, will be receiving 3.73's in the rear axle, and the inside gear in the transmission is blue.

Anyways, I am converting from automatic. If anyone has any tips, let me know. I have all of the parts as far as I know, but am open to any knowledge you guys can give me.

Edit: Not sure if it makes a difference, but it's a World Class T-5. Which brings another question, what is the difference between a T-5 and a World Class T-5? Also, is there a stamping or anything on the transmission that marks it as a WC?

 

To remove the cover, you first must remove the extension housing.

To remove the extension housing, you must first remove the shifter "block". It is held on the shift rail by a pin. Drive the pin inward SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, until you get it driven in JUST BARELY ENOUGH to clear the rail. If you drive it in SO FAR that it contacts the little ball guide thing underneath it, you will probably have to drill through the whole thing from the bottom to drive it back upward, and replace the mainshaft and extension housing. In other words, CARELESSLY DRIVING THE PIN IN TOO FAR WILL SCRAP THE TRANSMISSION!!! If you don't know what you're doing, best to leave it alone.

There isn't much to see in there. Most of the things that go bad, you can't see without disassembling the whole thing, anyway. Not worth taking it apart far enough to see that.

You can tell if there are broken teeth, trashed bearings, etc. by the fluid, and by how it turns. If the fluid has a normal amount of metal dust in it, with no big chips or flakes; if the fluid itself has that rich and satisfying "bouquet" aroma (yes I'm drinking wine ATM) of well-cured gear lube or ATF, with no "burnt" smell; and if the trans turns smoothly in all gears, with no roughness or scraping noises, then it's OK. Leave it alone.

The difference between the 1st design and the 2nd design is that the 1st design used a traditional straight roller bearing setup on the countergear (in fact, the rear CG bearing is the same part # as the 10-bolt axle bearing), traditional brass/bronze blocker rings, and the intermediate gears (1st, 2nd, 3rd) are mounted to the mainshaft on traditional bushings. The 2nd design uses tapered roller bearings with preload on the countergear, composition material on the blocker rings much like auto trans clutch material, and rollers between the intermediate gears and the mainshaft, for gas mileage (no strength or functional advantage, only slightly lower friction).

THey are easily identifiable from outside, while the transmission is installed in the car even, by looking at the front countergear bearing.



Top is 1st design, bottom is 2nd design; you can see about ¼" of the CG brg below the bell housing when it's in the car. Also, the reverse lever's shaft (looks from the outside kind of like a bolt toward the rear of the case, maybe 2" in front of the extension housing, on the driver's side) is a hex head on the 1st design, and a Torx head on the 2nd design, although they interchange and therefore this is not absolutely conclusive as someone could have mix-&-matched it.

I'd suggest cleaning the old silicone off the case and the cover with LOTS of lacquer thinner, re-siliconing the cover, and putting it back on; and leaving it alone. Torque the srews to about 10 ft-lbs. DO NOT overtorque them, or you will find yourself in Heli-Coil Hell, which is a major PITA without tearing the trans down.

For your speedo gears, you need the 7-tooth blue/purple drive gear, and a red 22-tooth driven. You can get it from www.transmissioncenter.net search the page for "speedometer". Speedo scale doesn't matter; they're all 1000 turns per mile.

 

sofa, you love posting that picture huh? lol

 

My info says 7 tooth and 22 tooth is for a 4.10 rear end. 7 tooth and 21 tooth is for a 3.73 ratio. That's what I used and have an accurate speedo.

 

Thanks a TON guys for that information.

That will help me alot, I printed it off as well just to have for future reference.

I love this site, this is the only site I have been able to get detailed information off of.

 

Yeah, the 21 tooth should be correct, unless you're running abnormally taller tires than stock, then a 20 tooth would do the job. I think Sofa just forgot the correct tooth count because the 21 tooth gear is red. The 22 tooth is usually gray, and the 20 tooth is usually blue.