tranz problem help plz
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: ill
Car: 87 iroc-z
Engine: 350 tpi motor
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: lsd 4.10
tranz problem help plz
i have been trying to drop my tranz for 3 days. i been getting stuck on stupid things it took my 3 hours to get the u joint off. And around 5 hours to get the torque bar off. now im stuk on the top tranz bolts it seems imposable to get off, there is no room to work. is there any tricks on how to work on this
also i dont wont to have to take my car to a shop, i want to learn. all the guys i hang out with have fox body **** stang's and know nothing about gm or are willing to help for that matter. im 17 and this job is way over my head help plz.
also i dont wont to have to take my car to a shop, i want to learn. all the guys i hang out with have fox body **** stang's and know nothing about gm or are willing to help for that matter. im 17 and this job is way over my head help plz.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,861
Likes: 2,427
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: tranz problem help plz
There's no "z" in "transmission".
Things like that will help you get an answer faster next time.
You get to the top bolts with a SHORT 9/16" box-end wrench, from above. You can just stand there, reach in, and undo them. Piece of cake even for someone as stupid as me.
I'm not sure what you're talking about "u-joint"... you shouldn't have to fool with those. You just take out the 4 little screws that hold the drive shaft to the rear end, and it about falls out. Takes less time to do that than it did for me to type the instructions. You don't have to mess with taking out either U-joint, they stay in the drive shaft when you take it out. Put a piece of masking or electrical tape around the caps so they don't fall off, and you don't lose any of the little rollers.
The torque arm is about the same. To make it easier on yourself, jack the rear of the car up until the rear wheels hang free off the ground, and support it with a pair of jack stands by the "frame", just at the front end of the rear control arms. Then jack the "pumpkin" up an inch or 2, just enough to raise the rear up off of the extension stops of the shocks; and support it with another pair of jack stands under the axle tubes. Not the shock brackets, not the LCAs, not the pumpkin itself; the AXLE TUBES, not by any other part beside that. When you do it that way, there will be no more than a pound or 2 of force on the arm; it's quite easy to work it with just one finger, take the tension off the bushing up at the trans or whatever else you need to do, to get it apart. Do it that way, it'll be about 10,000 times easier to put back together than whatever you did to get it apart.
The whole job is REALLY simple. This is a Chevy after all, much much easier to work on than a Frod.
Things like that will help you get an answer faster next time.You get to the top bolts with a SHORT 9/16" box-end wrench, from above. You can just stand there, reach in, and undo them. Piece of cake even for someone as stupid as me.
I'm not sure what you're talking about "u-joint"... you shouldn't have to fool with those. You just take out the 4 little screws that hold the drive shaft to the rear end, and it about falls out. Takes less time to do that than it did for me to type the instructions. You don't have to mess with taking out either U-joint, they stay in the drive shaft when you take it out. Put a piece of masking or electrical tape around the caps so they don't fall off, and you don't lose any of the little rollers.
The torque arm is about the same. To make it easier on yourself, jack the rear of the car up until the rear wheels hang free off the ground, and support it with a pair of jack stands by the "frame", just at the front end of the rear control arms. Then jack the "pumpkin" up an inch or 2, just enough to raise the rear up off of the extension stops of the shocks; and support it with another pair of jack stands under the axle tubes. Not the shock brackets, not the LCAs, not the pumpkin itself; the AXLE TUBES, not by any other part beside that. When you do it that way, there will be no more than a pound or 2 of force on the arm; it's quite easy to work it with just one finger, take the tension off the bushing up at the trans or whatever else you need to do, to get it apart. Do it that way, it'll be about 10,000 times easier to put back together than whatever you did to get it apart.
The whole job is REALLY simple. This is a Chevy after all, much much easier to work on than a Frod.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: ill
Car: 87 iroc-z
Engine: 350 tpi motor
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: lsd 4.10
Re: tranz problem help plz
thanks for the help, so hopfully i can have this trans out in a month or 2. o and it took me like a day to put a trans filter on.
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also what do you mean from above, like the tcc conecter hole.
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also what do you mean from above, like the tcc conecter hole.
Last edited by rice slyen 87; Dec 31, 2007 at 01:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Re: tranz problem help plz
trans removal is very simple.
there are 2 bolts to undo on the torque arm mount. one is 15mm and the other is 13mm.
drive shave loop bolts are 11mm
the crossmember is a total of 5 15mm nuts. 4 on the frame and 1 in the center, connecting to the trans mount.
then you have to remove the shifter linkage with is 2 bolts and 1 nut. 2 bolts on the tranny pan and one nut on the gear selector.
after all that all your should have left are the 6 9/16 bolts in the bellhousing.
the four on the bottom and middle you can easliy get with extensions and a swivel socket at the end.
the 2 at the top can also be done that way, but the easiest way is to use a wrench and remove them from up in the engine bay, behind the distributor.
this is actually not that much of a complicated job, but if it is your first time it will take a lil practice.
tranny removal should only take about 1 hour or less if you have all the tools.
but anyway, good luck and let us know if there are anymore problems.
there are 2 bolts to undo on the torque arm mount. one is 15mm and the other is 13mm.
drive shave loop bolts are 11mm
the crossmember is a total of 5 15mm nuts. 4 on the frame and 1 in the center, connecting to the trans mount.
then you have to remove the shifter linkage with is 2 bolts and 1 nut. 2 bolts on the tranny pan and one nut on the gear selector.
after all that all your should have left are the 6 9/16 bolts in the bellhousing.
the four on the bottom and middle you can easliy get with extensions and a swivel socket at the end.
the 2 at the top can also be done that way, but the easiest way is to use a wrench and remove them from up in the engine bay, behind the distributor.
this is actually not that much of a complicated job, but if it is your first time it will take a lil practice.
tranny removal should only take about 1 hour or less if you have all the tools.
but anyway, good luck and let us know if there are anymore problems.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: ill
Car: 87 iroc-z
Engine: 350 tpi motor
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: lsd 4.10
Re: tranz problem help plz
i have gotten all the way to the last to bolts, and i have all the right tools but still i cat get the bolts they are two high up and its impossabel to get from the motor bay
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: tranz problem help plz
Take the cap off the distributor, and the rotor button. Remove the two bolts from the motor mounts. Get a chunk of 2 x 4 and a jack - place 2 x 4 under balancer and jack the motor up in the front, which will bring the tranny down in the rear. Then you can easily get those last two with a socket and a couple 12 in. extensions.
Re: tranz problem help plz
but u dont have to go to all the trouble of undoing the motor mount bolts
just remove everything at the back of the intake: cap wires coil etc....and you should be able to get a wrench back there to get them loose. *those actually should have been the first ones to remove*
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