ALright, I have a 383 fully forged lower end.

Dart pro1 200cc heads 64cc chambers
holey stealth dual plane intake
750cfm speed demon carb
nitrous roller cam http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

full roller lifters and 1.6 rockers
A 150 wet shot probably feeling like a 200 shot with the cam.


I will be also getting a performabuilt transmission to handle the power.

I just wanted to see what yall thought I should go with before I talk to them.. It will be a street car, but I dont do too much driving.

 

3000-3500 stall speed based on the camshaft profile. If it was track only, I'd recommend 3500-4000.

I don't think you'll have enough carb for that engine.

 

Well I do have bigger jets on the carb, dont know if that helps or not. I am kind of a beginner with carbs. So a 3500 stall would be best? I think that will give me some street rather than none.

 

That's a big duration cam which requires a lot more stall. Comp cams recommends 2500+ stall converter so 3000 should be fine with nothing less than 2800. The cam will also want a deeper gear in the diff. Don't forget about a big tranny oil cooler to remove the excess heat created by a high stall converter.

Jets sizes don't mean much. Regardless of carb size, you're jetting for a good air fuel ratio. 14.7:1 while cruising and around 12:1 at WOT. The higher reving engine would probably perform better with an 800 or 850 carb. I ran a Speed Demon 850 DP on my old 383.

 

Eh, I think the 750 should be ok. Tried an 850 mighty demon on mine and it ran like absolute crap even after a month or two of messing with it. Here's the cam I'm running COMP Cams 12-224-4 with a 4,000 stall converter.

 

YA i talked to the guy from performabuilt and he gives me a tranny cooler. He also recomended a 3500 stall if i dont drive it all over everyday. Which I dont.

Just work school and fun

 

tick....tick....tick....tick....tick.....thats your 9bolt getting ready to blow lol.... 750 will be fine if u know how to tune it right.......

 

Lmao well look. I got no more money right now. I will baby it until now. Um how much can a 12 bolt be had for? ANy junkyard rear ends that would help for now?

 

No junkyard diffs will fit because the third gen uses a torque arm suspension. There's no easy/cheap way to attach the torque arm to any other diff.

A complete aftermarket bolt in 12 bolt is around $2500. You can get a complete bolt in 9" for about the same price but can also build one cheaper by buying the housing/axle package for around $1000 and adding your own third member which can be picked up at a swap meet or junkyard and your own brakes.

 

Just to toss in my $.02...with my current combo (check sig), I think a smaller diameter torque converter might be a benefit by reducing the weight of the rotating mass, but as far as more stall than stock, I liked the stock converter better. The higher stall speed, which is designed to "crutch" the lack of low end torque, must be for really over-cammed-for-the-street motors, or strip dedicated cars. I'm still running a LTR TPI set-up, and low-end torque is not something I have to drive the car(by using a high-stall converter) in a special manner to experience. I've still got more low-end than is usable, at least on street tires. Spins hard mid-second gear ...(not that that ain't fun.......!) with a 2600 stall. -Bill

 

I running a slightly smaller cam with a 3600 stallin my DD. Its much more streetable than I ever would have imagined, I'm considering a restall to 4000 I'd go with a 4000.

 

Lmao well I think a 3500 will suffice.