mechanical clutch linkage
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27
mechanical clutch linkage
I found a mechanical clutch linkage on a firebird. I am Planning on using this on my Iroc. Any body else use this or does everyone use hydraulic?
Junior Member

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
you found some or you got a mechanical setup do you have all of it?
it was a 82 or 83 bird 4 or 5 spd right i got a 83 camaro wit it all stock on a t-5
it was a 82 or 83 bird 4 or 5 spd right i got a 83 camaro wit it all stock on a t-5
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County Pa
Car: 85 Firebird
Engine: 355 Vortec TPI
Transmission: 700r4 with Pro-Built goodies
Axle/Gears: LS1 3.42 Posi Disc
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
I have two of these setups in my garage. I plan on installing one of them on my firebird this summer if time permits. Worked great in the cars they were in, as long as you don't mind a stiff clutch pedal heh. -Bob
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
Yep ol bird dead in a field. I do have all the parts, pedal assembly bell crank and ball to the enigine block. I opted for the hydraulic set for now, (header clearance issue) this winter I will try some different headers. I think the clutch pedal pressure should not much different from all the old camaros and such that I have had. the car was a automatic car and I converted it to manual set up.
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it is a 5.0 or v-6 model?
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it is a 5.0 or v-6 model?
Last edited by lantyj; May 30, 2008 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
Don't waste your time - if you already have the hydraulic linkage, keep that... its much better. I've had nothing but problems with the mechanical linkage in my '83.. The Z-bars always break right on the welds, or just above. Thats why GM was so quick to replace it with the hydraulic stuff. Plus, the pedal is MUCH stiffer with the mechanical linkage, to the point where its a workout just to drive to work.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
Yea I was wondering aboout that,(pedal pressure) but I will not be driving on the street much I am preparing for autocross and road course racing. getting close too! I guess I need to update photo's soon.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
On the street its a pain, but its actually worse for racing IMO (I've drag raced with mine for a few years now)... reason being, theres a 'stiff point' in the linkage where the Z-bar kinda loses its leverage over the clutch fork, and it just happens to be right where the clutch starts to engage. So basically what happens, is it makes it very difficult to smoothly engage the clutch, because it REALLY wants wants to kick back hard right at the engagement point. Its a big pain at the strip, because it makes it very hard to start w/o spinning the tires. I would imagine it would cause all kinds of problems on an autox track too.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
theres a 'stiff point' in the linkage where the Z-bar kinda loses its leverage over the clutch fork, and it just happens to be right where the clutch starts to engage. So basically what happens, is it makes it very difficult to smoothly engage the clutch, because it REALLY wants wants to kick back hard right at the engagement point. Its a big pain at the strip, because it makes it very hard to start w/o spinning the tires.
I upgraded to a hydraulic throw out bearing, and i'll see how that works here.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
Who are you talking to Sirhcz? I know not me, since you already PM'ed me and asked and I told you I didn't.
Are you thinking about following my advice about the hydraulic TO bearing?
Are you thinking about following my advice about the hydraulic TO bearing?
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
I would like to change it to hydraulic, but I don't have the money to do that right now. I don't work on my own cars. My mechanic said he would empty my wallet if he did change it to hydraulic. He said it was a lot of work. I'm just going to change the bellcrank for now and when I do have the money, I'll change it to hydraulic. Thanks for your help though.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
From: Huber Heights (DAYTON), Ohio U.S.
Car: 83 T/A WS-6
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5 Manual Clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Positraction
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
My mechanical clutch works great. You got to keep the z-bar greased good so that it does not bind.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,093
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: mechanical clutch linkage
-- Joe
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