As usual, an easy Saturday project gets rammed right up my *** . When I tried to remove the stock linkage that the shifter cable connects to on the Trans, the nut snapped the shaft right off. Yee ha. Since I have absolutely no plans of ever going back to the stock shifter, I think I'm going to just tack weld the B&M bracket to what's left of the rod. Since it's slotted, the bracket will still be in the proper place. Any comments on this before I go ahead and do it?



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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

Just make sure you install the bracket correctly before you weld it. It can go on 2 different ways. Do a test fit with the cable and bracket first. Also disconnect the battery before you start welding.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas

Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!

Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

Take a look in the tranny, drop the pan! I know the shifter linkage is attached to a removeable swing arm. I could be replaced with another one from a junk tranny. I just do not remember if the valve body has to be removed. I seriously doubt it. If you weld the linkage the tranny will not be rebuildable (or at least way difficult) in the future if you plan to keep the car. Good luck and keep us posted.

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84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

91 Firebird 5.0L TBI

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

It is easy to replace. I would dig up another.

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South East Thirdgen

"I used to have a handle on life, but then I used it as a plunger and broke it" -The Wave

ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am-K&N,Cold air induction, SSM SFC, Boxed LCAs, 8mm Accel wires, Flowmaster, 16" GTA rims.
'97 Bonneville SSE

How easy is easy? Do I have to drop the valve body or not? I've had that fricking pan off 3 times in the last 20 miles of driving and I'm sick of having fluid in my hair.



------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

No you do not have to pull the valve body to install it and remove it. Just the pan....

My suggestion to you is to either get a pan with a drain plug or install one in the pan itself.

You can get one of those kits for under $5.00 at the auto part store. And they work great. A lot easier than getting your floor and you covered with fluid. I installed one in a 700R4 and have yet to leak a drop of fluid. Works wonders....



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Sportsman II 72 CC heads, Pete Jackson gear drive, Performance Resources chip, Edelbrock 1 5/8" headers and Edelbrock cat back exhaust, hi-flow cats, Trans-go stage 3 shift kit, Vigilante 9.5" 2800 stall convertor, SLP cold air induction, SLP roller camshaft, 24lb ADS injectors, AFPR, 3.45 rear end gears, and other goodies...

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