t-5 removal questions.....
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: pgh,pa,
t-5 removal questions.....
ok can someone list the procedures for removal of the trans,bellhousing, and clutch for a t-5, what all has to be removed?
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87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.45 posi 4 wheel disc,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,gutted air box,k&n oil filter,synthetic oil 10w30
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87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.45 posi 4 wheel disc,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,gutted air box,k&n oil filter,synthetic oil 10w30
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 311
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From: waterford, CT 06385
Things to remove/disconnect: shifter(i just unscrew the shift lever), torque arm, cross member, speedo cable, driveshaft, 4 bolts from trans to bellhousing.
To remove the bellhousing: remove 6 bolts to engine and 2 slave cyl bolts.
Replace the cluch disc, pressure plate, T/O bearing and inspect/replace pilot bushing in rear of crank. I like to scuff the flywheel with some emery cloth or have it surfaced(best).
The rear of the tranny will leak with the driveshaft out, so either drain it or plug it.
Put the car up on jack stands or a lift. Before removing the torque arm, put a jack or jack stand under the panhard bar mount on the rear axle to stop it from turning up when the torque arm bolts are removed. Also, when you remove the rear cross member make sure the distributor doesnt hit the firewall, HEI's with the intergral coil usually do, especially if the motor mounts are in tough shape.
I have probably missed something here, but it is really a straight forward job.
I suggest adjusting the input shaft preload on the new tranny before installing it; shim it to 0.008 to 0.012 preload
To remove the bellhousing: remove 6 bolts to engine and 2 slave cyl bolts.
Replace the cluch disc, pressure plate, T/O bearing and inspect/replace pilot bushing in rear of crank. I like to scuff the flywheel with some emery cloth or have it surfaced(best).
The rear of the tranny will leak with the driveshaft out, so either drain it or plug it.
Put the car up on jack stands or a lift. Before removing the torque arm, put a jack or jack stand under the panhard bar mount on the rear axle to stop it from turning up when the torque arm bolts are removed. Also, when you remove the rear cross member make sure the distributor doesnt hit the firewall, HEI's with the intergral coil usually do, especially if the motor mounts are in tough shape.
I have probably missed something here, but it is really a straight forward job.
I suggest adjusting the input shaft preload on the new tranny before installing it; shim it to 0.008 to 0.012 preload
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 741
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From: pgh,pa,
how do you shim the input shaft? and how do you measure the preload?also i thought i only have to disconect the torque arm from the mount, not the rear axle?
------------------
87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.45 posi 4 wheel disc,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,gutted air box,k&n oil filter,synthetic oil 10w30
------------------
87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd Borg warner 9-bolt 3.45 posi 4 wheel disc,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,gutted air box,k&n oil filter,synthetic oil 10w30
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 16
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From: Cleburne,Tx 76031
You don't need to remove the back four on the torque arm. Thers a conenctor thats mounted to the tranny, then you undo it and move the front of the torque arm up. You will have to jack up the rear for this. I just got done with a t-5 swap today so if you need anything else e-mail me at Pau118@cs.com
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 311
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From: waterford, CT 06385
I usually remove the torque arm just to get it out of the way.
To shim the input shaft:
1) loosen input shaft bearing retainer screws
2) tighten screws evenly by hand
3) measure gap with feeler gauge, i usually go 0.012
4) if the gap is too small, you need to add shims, which are added to the bearing retainer on teh inside.
it is really easy. You may have to get the shims at parts store. It will make the tranny shift better and less likely to break. I re-shim mine about every 30K miles
To shim the input shaft:
1) loosen input shaft bearing retainer screws
2) tighten screws evenly by hand
3) measure gap with feeler gauge, i usually go 0.012
4) if the gap is too small, you need to add shims, which are added to the bearing retainer on teh inside.
it is really easy. You may have to get the shims at parts store. It will make the tranny shift better and less likely to break. I re-shim mine about every 30K miles
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