Since my 700 is dead, I figured I would go ahead w/ the t56 swap. The trouble is my mechanical speedo which I don't want to replace w/ an aftermarket unit. How much difference is there between the two diff. trans? Is there anything else I have to do other than cut the driveshaft to use the aftermarket version?

thanks,


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87 IROC-Z, 5.7, auto, 3.27, leather, !cat, Holley fpr, K&N'S, SLP 1-3/4" Jet-Hot coated headers, SLP .218/.224 .495/.502 cam, Comp 1.5 roller tip rockers, $uperPITAram, Edelbrock lower intake, Holley 52mm tb, Dynomax\Flowmaster catback. Coming Soon(?)- Fasttrack/Accell DFI

1989 Pontiac 20th Anniversary Turbo Trans Am - 161,000 miles, !cat, 9" K&N

 

Go to Skulte Performance, I think it's at http://www.skulte.com try that and see. He's got a complete list and step by step instructions on how to do the swap.

 

I have the aftermarket T-56. The aftermarket version comes with an adapter to hook up a mechanical sending unit. The aftermarket t-56 may be more money but it is a much easier and better swap than the production. If you already have an auto all you need is the trans and crossmember and have your driveshaft shortened.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
Aftermarket T-56 (pain in the A$S but worth it)
Lots of things to do still

 

I'd go with the stock. I'm not a big fan of T56's with the LT1 "trimmings" because the flywheels are really heavy and that rotating mass adds up in higher RPMS. The only downside to the aftermarket T56 is the cost. They are just a tad out of the range of being easily affordable.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

If I get the aftermarket unit, do I still need to use the lt1 flywheel, bellhousing, cluch/slave cylinder, etc? or can I use 3rdgen t5 components?

do the aftermarket t56 crossmembers work for both stock and aftermarket units?

thanks

 

Well if you get the aftermarket t56 all you need is a bellhousing adapter, crossmember and have your driveshaft shortened. Thats it. But there are a bunch of trumming you can get for it. The crossmember is kind of a loaded question. You can buy a stock t56 one and modify it like the various articles, make your own, or (here is a plug for Steve) Steve's aftermarket crossmember and torque arm. Yes he makes them now. I have one and I love it. I only had to lend my trans for a while. The biggest thing about the aftermarket trans is like 84FTA said the cost. I got mine with the lakewood SFI bellhousing, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch hydraulics, pedals, crossmember, and shortened driveshaft for a good deal. It was under $2500 used but with almost no miles. You wont be finding a deal like that anytime soon. All of those thing add up over $3k. The only other thing I got that was hard to find was a shifter. I had to buy a shifter for the Rustang t-56 and get a different shift arm. Email me if you want any details.

James
**Edit** My 500th post! woo hoo!

[This message has been edited by scooter (edited December 21, 2000).]

 

I'd go with the OEM T-56. the main reason is the ease of installation, plus when going with a more powerful engine, that 10.4" clutch will slip quicker than the 11" setup. The OEM unit is a direct bolt in also. For ultimate clutch setups, go with an OEM unit and the MCLEOD STREET TWIN, rated at 1200 HP ar 7500 RPM's. You can have a good OEM T-56 with the MCLEOD setup for $1700-$2000 at the most. HTH's

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88 Monte SS 355 TPI/LT-4 HOT CAM/AFR Hydra-rev/ T-56 6-Speed