Losing time shifting, tips??
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From: Detroit
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 FFI
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Losing time shifting, tips??
Hi. I was wondering if this might be the right place to post, but I'm going to ask anyways.
My Iroc has a WC-T5 in it, and while i've learned to drive on it and now have no problems in everyday driving (yes, even on the hills and crappy roads in Pittsburgh), but when i really push it just cruising with my dad, I lose alot of time shifting, and a little sprint i should have won now becomes even (i know because while in gear i make time, but when i shift he gains ground).
So do any of you have any tips for performance driving a WCT5? I don't want to try anything and damage the tranny because the clutch wasn't all the way down yet or something stupid like that. Maybe i'm just too cautious but I'm sure there are some tips out there to help shorten the time i'm shifting.
Thanks
~LMSkyliner
My Iroc has a WC-T5 in it, and while i've learned to drive on it and now have no problems in everyday driving (yes, even on the hills and crappy roads in Pittsburgh), but when i really push it just cruising with my dad, I lose alot of time shifting, and a little sprint i should have won now becomes even (i know because while in gear i make time, but when i shift he gains ground).
So do any of you have any tips for performance driving a WCT5? I don't want to try anything and damage the tranny because the clutch wasn't all the way down yet or something stupid like that. Maybe i'm just too cautious but I'm sure there are some tips out there to help shorten the time i'm shifting.
Thanks
~LMSkyliner
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From: Detroit
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 FFI
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Production manual transmissions give a fun factor on the street but suck on the dragstrip.
You can try powershifting without the clutch but you'll probably break the transmission.
You can try powershifting without the clutch but you'll probably break the transmission.
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From: Detroit
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 FFI
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: FL
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: V6 - LS Swap Incoming
Transmission: 700R4 - T56 Mag F Incoming
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
PowerShift:
As you get within 500 to 300 rpms before redline you push the clutch in while keeping your foot on the gas. You must QUICKLY pull your shifter into the next gear and let off the clutch fast! This keeps the rpms from dropping to much in the shift so when you let off the clutch you'll be slightly higher keeping you further and better in the power band. This will add any where from .4 to .1 in the 1/4 mile on average.
The downside is of course if you screw up the shift and keep the foot on the gas you can over rev the engine.
As you get within 500 to 300 rpms before redline you push the clutch in while keeping your foot on the gas. You must QUICKLY pull your shifter into the next gear and let off the clutch fast! This keeps the rpms from dropping to much in the shift so when you let off the clutch you'll be slightly higher keeping you further and better in the power band. This will add any where from .4 to .1 in the 1/4 mile on average.
The downside is of course if you screw up the shift and keep the foot on the gas you can over rev the engine.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
I can shift the tremec real fast, for a manual, but using the clutch. Im told they cant be powershifted? never tried.
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Thread Starter
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From: Detroit
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 FFI
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Well that sounds better than the T5. I'll need a TKO600 either way because my final engine should be around 510 FT LBS and i want it to be nice and safe.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Hurst shifter and a short-stick... best upgrade I ever made to my '97 Z28. Its a T56, but would be a great upgrade for a T5, as they use the same shifters.
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
So a Shorty shifter made for the T56 will bolt right on my T5? I thought i had to have a Pro 5.0 shifter base for the t56 shorty shifters.
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From: Syracuse, NY
Car: 1992 z28
Engine: carb 355
Transmission: wc T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi 10 bolt
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Step 1: short throw shifter. Just get one for the T-5. I have the proform one and noticed a huge difference in the throw.
Step 2: Practice, practice, practice. Everything will be a little bit different. Keep working on it, try a few different things and see what works best for YOU.
The best place to see what works best (E.T. wise) is at the track.
Good luck. have fun.
Step 2: Practice, practice, practice. Everything will be a little bit different. Keep working on it, try a few different things and see what works best for YOU.
The best place to see what works best (E.T. wise) is at the track.
Good luck. have fun.
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From: forest hill md
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 4.11s
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
a t-5 and a t-56 do not use the same shifter base the handle that bolts to the shifter base is interchangeable but not the base
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From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Powershifting oldschool:
1) Rev up,
2) Dont lift
3) Jam it into next gear without using clutch.
Im pretty sure you cant do this with new transmissions, because they have syncros, so....... theres a new way
Powershifting now: (Say 3-4 shift)
1)Rev up
2)Dont lift
3)Pull the lever down as hard as you can.
4) As your pulling the lever down, it will go from "in 3rd gear, close to neutral"
5) You just tap the clutch pedal at the very top of its travel,
5a)At the SAME TIME< your shifter will cross over the neural, and get close to neutral in 4th gear, by which time the clutch pedal is let out.
6) Finish slamming into 4th.
Step 5-6 take a split second, its where the magic happens.
During the entire time, your foot is pinned to the gas, and you should notice the slightest fluctuation in RPM DOWNWARDS ONLY!. If you rev up before it hooks into 4th, u need practice. The RPM should only drop, thats when youre good at it.
Since you dont want to break the tranny, try this at night, on a quiet street, with no pedestrians. Go slow, maybe 20mph or something. And try shifting without lifting. You dont have to redline, try it around 2000 or 2500 rpm.
The hardest part is to get used to NOT taking your foot off the gas.
TKO's and Tremec's have a built in "stopper". When youre shifting this aggressively, youre not being nice to the tranny internals. The pro 5.0 shifter has stops built it. You just adjust them to where the gear is selected, and the stoppers take the extra force, instead of your tranny internals.
1) Rev up,
2) Dont lift
3) Jam it into next gear without using clutch.
Im pretty sure you cant do this with new transmissions, because they have syncros, so....... theres a new way
Powershifting now: (Say 3-4 shift)
1)Rev up
2)Dont lift
3)Pull the lever down as hard as you can.
4) As your pulling the lever down, it will go from "in 3rd gear, close to neutral"
5) You just tap the clutch pedal at the very top of its travel,
5a)At the SAME TIME< your shifter will cross over the neural, and get close to neutral in 4th gear, by which time the clutch pedal is let out.
6) Finish slamming into 4th.
Step 5-6 take a split second, its where the magic happens.
During the entire time, your foot is pinned to the gas, and you should notice the slightest fluctuation in RPM DOWNWARDS ONLY!. If you rev up before it hooks into 4th, u need practice. The RPM should only drop, thats when youre good at it.
Since you dont want to break the tranny, try this at night, on a quiet street, with no pedestrians. Go slow, maybe 20mph or something. And try shifting without lifting. You dont have to redline, try it around 2000 or 2500 rpm.
The hardest part is to get used to NOT taking your foot off the gas.
TKO's and Tremec's have a built in "stopper". When youre shifting this aggressively, youre not being nice to the tranny internals. The pro 5.0 shifter has stops built it. You just adjust them to where the gear is selected, and the stoppers take the extra force, instead of your tranny internals.
Last edited by online170; Sep 29, 2008 at 03:05 PM.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
I thought the T5 and T56 did use the same base - I might be wrong though. I never had a urst for the T5, it blew up too soon after I got the car lol.
I thought I've seen shifters for sale for "82-02 Camaro/Firebird"?
Anyway, it doesn't matter, the effect of the shifter is the same, and Hurst makes an awesome piece. The throw on my T56 is half as long as stock, and its much more solid as well. Much easier to shift hard and fast than before.
I highly recommend a Hurst shifter (the base and the shaft/stick, they are sometimes sold separately). The base is the important part, the stock stick may be able to be bolted on, like the one for my T56 was.
I thought I've seen shifters for sale for "82-02 Camaro/Firebird"?
Anyway, it doesn't matter, the effect of the shifter is the same, and Hurst makes an awesome piece. The throw on my T56 is half as long as stock, and its much more solid as well. Much easier to shift hard and fast than before.
I highly recommend a Hurst shifter (the base and the shaft/stick, they are sometimes sold separately). The base is the important part, the stock stick may be able to be bolted on, like the one for my T56 was.
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From: forest hill md
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 4.11s
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
i think the base of a t-56 is more rectangular than the t-5, i had a pro 5.0 on my t-5 then i blew it up and got a t-56 and the pro 5.0 would not fit the t-56
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From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
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Transmission: T56
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX
Engine: GMPP Gen0 350 small block
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: Nissan R200 3.133, Tomei 2-way
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
You do not need a clutch to shift gear, but using a clutch = mechanical sympathy for your gearbox.
There are ways to shift clutchlessly, but you should only do it in emergency situations, like when your clutch hydro gives out and you need to return to the pit/home.
In order to shift clutchless, you have to understand revmatching. The clutch disconnects the engine from the gearbox input shaft. The wheels/driveshaft and engine turn at different speeds. The clutch slips and allows both sides to mesh together.
Gearboxes have synchros, but they're meant to smooth out minor speed differences between the input shaft disconnected from the engine, and the driveshaft. The synchros cannot handle synchronizing task of meshing a rotating engine to a rotating output shaft/driveshaft/diff/axles/wheels. That's just too much mass for a tiny synchro to handle. Compare the size of a synchro to a clutch plate.
To shift out of gear, you technically do not need to do anything. Depending on the gearbox design, you should be able to slip the shifter out of gear. Sometimes lifting the throttle will help ease the load and allow the shifter to move out of gear more easily.
Shifting into gear is a completely different story. You have to match engine speed perfectly to wheel/axle/diff/driveshaft/output shaft speed. The synchros can handle minor speed differences, but major speed differences = toast.
Rev and hold the engine to the perfect RPM where it would be had the car been in gear. Then the shifter should slide into gear. The trick is that the vehicle will probably be losing speed. So you're chasing a moving target.
It's doable but a) not very fast, and b) abusive to your gearbox. That's why I say it's reserved for emergencies.
Your second option is to go to a dogbox or sequential box.
I think you would need earplugs to drive these
There are ways to shift clutchlessly, but you should only do it in emergency situations, like when your clutch hydro gives out and you need to return to the pit/home.
In order to shift clutchless, you have to understand revmatching. The clutch disconnects the engine from the gearbox input shaft. The wheels/driveshaft and engine turn at different speeds. The clutch slips and allows both sides to mesh together.
Gearboxes have synchros, but they're meant to smooth out minor speed differences between the input shaft disconnected from the engine, and the driveshaft. The synchros cannot handle synchronizing task of meshing a rotating engine to a rotating output shaft/driveshaft/diff/axles/wheels. That's just too much mass for a tiny synchro to handle. Compare the size of a synchro to a clutch plate.
To shift out of gear, you technically do not need to do anything. Depending on the gearbox design, you should be able to slip the shifter out of gear. Sometimes lifting the throttle will help ease the load and allow the shifter to move out of gear more easily.
Shifting into gear is a completely different story. You have to match engine speed perfectly to wheel/axle/diff/driveshaft/output shaft speed. The synchros can handle minor speed differences, but major speed differences = toast.
Rev and hold the engine to the perfect RPM where it would be had the car been in gear. Then the shifter should slide into gear. The trick is that the vehicle will probably be losing speed. So you're chasing a moving target.
It's doable but a) not very fast, and b) abusive to your gearbox. That's why I say it's reserved for emergencies.
Your second option is to go to a dogbox or sequential box.
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Never try powershifting without the clutch on a sreet trans, disaster will prevail.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 123
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX
Engine: GMPP Gen0 350 small block
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: Nissan R200 3.133, Tomei 2-way
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
The rotating mass is also too much for the synchro to handle. Some cars have double or even triple synchros for low gears, but still not enough.
That's not doable on a regular production gearbox due to helical cut gears for noise reduction. If you had straight cut dog gears, then it would be okay.
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From: SF bay area
Car: 86 Camaro iroc-z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
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From: Detroit
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 FFI
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Losing time shifting, tips??
Don't worry Don. I think disaster is already prevailing. There's some majorly eerie noises and feelings coming up through the shifter. I'm looking into a local guy with another WCT5 laying around for cheap I might have to pick up just so i have a transmission. I can't afford my TKO yet.
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