Line from radiator to Trans is clogged...Help!!!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City, Ok, USA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Line from radiator to Trans is clogged...Help!!!
The line that runs to the top of the radiator to the transmission (700r4) is clogged with dirt! I can't get the line unbolted from the trans, it is solid and I can't loosen it any! What can I do about this, I am thinking about just ignoring it because I am so frustraited but I know that would not be very good to run it like that.
Any Sudgestions??
Any Sudgestions?? Do not ignore this problem. A clogged line will quickly destroy your tranny fluid and cause a failure.
Ever see those new butane mini-torch lighters? they are great for applying heat to a small area like that (2000F degrees). Put engine oil on that frozen fitting (thread area) and heat thoroughly with the mini-torch. It should come right out. A brake-line wrench is the preferred method, but use channel-locks, grips, or whatever it takes to get that fitting out.
You may need to oil & heat cycle it a few times if it's really bad.
good luck on that one
------------------
*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99
Ever see those new butane mini-torch lighters? they are great for applying heat to a small area like that (2000F degrees). Put engine oil on that frozen fitting (thread area) and heat thoroughly with the mini-torch. It should come right out. A brake-line wrench is the preferred method, but use channel-locks, grips, or whatever it takes to get that fitting out.
You may need to oil & heat cycle it a few times if it's really bad.
good luck on that one
------------------
*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I know sometimes, if I have a hard-line-fitting that I can't budge (usually brake lines), I'll put aside my flare-nut open-ended wrenches. I'll pick up a BIG open-ended adjustable wrench and tighten it down over the fitting. A few hard "hits" with my hand, and the fitting comes out. Plus, it doesn't damage the nut as much.
Of course I don't know if fitting a large adjustable wrench up against the trans is possible!
How the heck did that line get clogged??
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Of course I don't know if fitting a large adjustable wrench up against the trans is possible!
How the heck did that line get clogged??
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
my 2 cents. if you can't get it out, then cut the metal line as close to the fitting as possible. (use a pipe cutter) then you can work with the fitting alittle easier. maybe even use a socket on it if it isn't too messed up. then go to an auto parts store and buy a really short piece of brake line (most sell them with the flares already on them) take the old fitting with you to the store. then cut on of the flares off the new pipe and "couple" the two pieces together with a piece of high temp hose.
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)
so, how did you fix it?? i'd like to know.
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)
The oil and heat thing should work, or try "liquid wrench", a product you can find at any hardware store.
However, I posted this because i believe that you need to heat the area first, then shoot some oil on it. The heat will draw the oil into the threads of the fitting, thereby freeing the nut with an easy twist.
It might be easier to use liquid wrench. It really does work, and I say that from experience.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI
700-R4
K&N Air filters
However, I posted this because i believe that you need to heat the area first, then shoot some oil on it. The heat will draw the oil into the threads of the fitting, thereby freeing the nut with an easy twist.
It might be easier to use liquid wrench. It really does work, and I say that from experience.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI
700-R4
K&N Air filters
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