Just put a brand new clutch in and the shifter grinds into gear. EVERY gear

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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton SN92 polished kit, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5200rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,stock chip,Ford SVO 24# injectors,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

Sounds like an incorrect air gap. This results in a very slight drag, not enough to make the car move but enough to screw up the shifting. I assume this problem wasn't happening prior to the clutch swap.

 

how can an incorrect air gap occur? I wasnt the one who did the clutch.

 

It's very rare that all 5 synchro rings in a trans will wear out at the exact same time, which also just happens to be the same time that a clutch job got done.

There's something wrong with your clutch. Did the pilot bearing get replaced? Flywheel turned? etc. Grinding into gear is virtually always a clutch problem, not a trans one.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

True...the flywheel was resurfaced. I dont have a pilot bearing. I have a pilot bushing. And i just greased it. It was in ok shape. Brand new throwout bearing of course.

I even broke the cluctch in 450miles before getting on it

------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton SN92 polished kit, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5200rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,stock chip,Ford SVO 24# injectors,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

Its' not a flywheel or pilot bushing problem. The problem is within the release mechanism itself. It could be a defective pressure plate (rare), but most likely improper mounting of the clutch fork on the ball stud or improper/incomplete bleeding of clutch hydraulics.

First I would check the throw on the slave cylinder, I believe it should be at minimum less than 6/10ths of a inch. If it is going that much, make sure the clutchfork is on the ball stud. The only other possibility is the TO bearing being installed backwards that it'd take someone real incompentent to do that and it wouldn't last long (if it even worked). I'd definetly check the first two things though.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 Trans Am T-tops
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101

 

i have had a similar problem to that before. i would bleed the slave cylinder first and check the throw on it, like 84TA said. i found my ballstud was working itself loose and tightened it up (use loctite) and solved it. later on, i also had a bent clutch fork which prevented the clutch from fully disengaging. for $25-$30 you can get a heavy duty clutch fork from jegs. i have seen after market clutch pressure plates (RAM) bad from the factory, too. well, just a few things to try