I have A HD Posi and some richmond 4.10's and the crosspin wont slide past the teeth. It is way close to working but its not.

 

Yesterday I was looking into that setup and you had to buy a 4 series kit or something. I think it was on Richmond Gears or SLP site.

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92 RS, 350, Street & Performance MPFI, TFS heads,
Crane Rollers,
MSD Digital 6 Plus, 22lb injectors,
ZZ3 cam, Edelbrock Headers 1 5/8, 3" Exhaust,
Hi Flow 3" Cat, stock T-5,
stock rear 3.08, koni yellow adjustable front, twin turbo glass hood, T-tops, Auto Meter Ultra Lite Series 2 5/8 gauges, Teal Green

 

I called slp and bought a 2 peice crosspin for 130 bucks. I thought about cutting the one I have in half but then I would loose the width of the cut. This rearend is getting expensive.

 

i bought one from richmond i tihnk, abnout 50 dollars. after i got it i ithnk you could grind a notch in the stock one and get the same thing.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

If the pin is allllmost there you can carefully grind the ofending teeth. try not to hit the contact patch though. If you are careful you shouldn't have any problem. Another popular mathod is to grind a flat on the pin. I would have to advise against that though.

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82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter

 

We grinded the teeth of the gear on mine to make it fit. I havnt had any problems out of it or noise. I friend of mine that installs gears just hammers the **** out of it to make it fit. He does this alot with no problems.

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1989 Irocz
350 T-5

 

if you grind a flat on the pin, or buy one with the flat made in it you put the pin in before bolting up the ring gear. that way you don't have to mess with the ring gear.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

I found a way it might work without hammering or grinding. On one side of the carrier is a cap, Held on with 4 bolts. The cap keeps the guts in the carrier. If you loosen the 4 bolts, it lets the piece where the axle splines fit in, move out just enough the bar will fit in.

 

I don't know if this is the case with the 4:10's or not but i thought i hade the same problem with the 3:73's i installed. The cross pin block wouldn't fit when i tried to put it in too. I found that the helical gears had moved inwards when i was installing it. Rotate the axles counterclockwise? and the pin will slide right in. That should work i don't know if it will with you.

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• 89 Formula 305 WS6
  SFC's
  LCA's
  Spohn Panhard Bar
  Air Foil
  Flowmaster Cat Back
  Tranny Cooler
  A/F Ratio Meter (not a mod but it sure spurs interest)
  Trans Temp Gauge
  Most "Free" Mods
  3:73, Zexel Torsion Posi
• 90 Eagle Talon 2.0
  (Winter Beater)
  Mods? Um, no

 

I had a similar experience after I moved some shims to correct the backlash. I had hooked up a cable winch from my trailer hitch hooked into the Torsen to pull it out. Seems like I had displaced the spiral gears some, because the paddle would not go back in. The axle seemed to be locked. Not knowing what to do, I cranked both axles back and forth and the paddle went right in again.

BTW, I know a couple of people with 4th Gens who had 4.10 gears installed by a dealer and didn't need the special paddle kit.

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

I know this is old, but I'm willing to bet a lot of people still grind a ton before realizing you might have to spin the helical interior gear to give you more room! Ask me how i know lol

I ground quite a bit off my paddle to no avail, before reading this and spinning the pass. side axle, which gave me plenty of clearance! I had to use a pry bar on the carrier to hold it still while my friend spun the axle by hand.