Looking to change the one in my 84 which ive heard rumors that they are not as good as the newer ones? Do they all interchange??/
thanx

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84 Z28
355 chevy 9.5-1 about 350 horse. many mods

 

They all interchange but the 87-89 models were the best.

 

arent the speedo senders different?? do u know when they changed if they did




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84 Z28
355 chevy 9.5-1 about 350 horse. many mods

 

The speed sensors are either mechanical (with a speedo cable),
or electrical (with an electric sensor).

1986 was the transition year from mechanical to electrical senders.

All you need to do is remove the mechanical sender from your old tranny, and then take the tail housing off (held on by four bolts) and remove the tailshaft drive gear.

Then, remove the tailshaft housing of the new tranny and put your old gear on in place of the gear the new tranny came with, unless it's of the same size as your original gear of course then leave it on. Put the tailshaft housing back on and slap in your original mechanical sender.

Or, if you're going with a custom built tranny, have the builder include a new mechanical sender with the appropriate tailshaft gear according to your rearend gear ratio.


------------------
86 Trans Am WS6 Black with tinted windows, shaved door handles
ZZ4, Mini-ram, true duals
***Too many other mods to mention***

"In the future, cities will become deserts,
roads will become battlefields, and the hope of mankind
will appear as a stranger" The Road Warrior

 

Um, no. The best Thirdgen auto trannies are the 90+ 700R4, aka the 4L60. These are the toughest and also the most refined.



------------------
91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

Built on Wednesday

 

Ditto on what MrJ said. Why would the '87-'89's be better than the '90+? I beleive they improved them in the middle of the '88 model year if I remember right.

------------------
'91 GTA with TPI 350 & T-Tops. Just a few mods, if you want to find out just line up next to me at a stoplight!

Added bonus:
Wife's car is a '00 Grand Prix GTP!

 

arent these newer ones(90+) computer controlled-mine is no longer computerized althouhg i do have a switch to lock up the converter. Thanx for your help

 

Yes Hanks1....You're right, go with an 87 and up 700R4 and NOT a 4L60E. The 4L60 is the electronic version, and you don't want that.

 

The 1988 thru early 1993 700R4/4L60's are the best to start a performance build with. If you can get the 1992 with low miles then there will be less hard parts replacement. They (1992) had even more updates & fixes & better accumulation than earlier units. If it has a TV cable then it is a 700R4/4L60 & not the 4L60E. In Canada the 1993's were 700R4/4L60's with the same fixes as the 1992's. From a strength standpoint (1988-1992) they are all pretty much the same.
Hope This Helps!!!

 

PBAutomatics, isn't it better to say 87-92 rather than 88-92, when 87 brought improvments over the 86 and before 700-R4's, like the fluid pump and a revised input drum also?? I think theres more but I'm not sure.

------------------
Looking For:

87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI
The car I want.

84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
Another car that would be OK to own while I still look for the IROC-Z!!



[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 11, 2001).]

 

87 is a tossup because not all them got the mods.

I hear the 93 4L60 (700R4) not the 4L60E has problems because they switched to teflon coated split bushings. Sometimes these can loosen and blow the front seal out. It's just what I heard.... To always replace these in an overhaul with the standard babbit style bushings, so you might want to avoid a 93.

 

Is there any way to be sure that not all of the 87's got these things and not just 87 1/2's?? U should still say 87 though since thats where most improvements came and everything I've read said just 87 and not 87 1/2, how can u tell them apart from the 87's that did and didn't get them??

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 12, 2001).]

 

Yes. In the later styles theres a seperate valve body (very small) behind the 'normal' valve body(it's made of aluminum and houses an accumulator/spring and 2 valves). There's also a metal tube that connects the pump to the rear of the case that travels under the valvebody.

 

I have used the Teflon bushings (2004R/700R4) in the front pump, reverse input drum, & the extension housing with none spinning out. The Teflon does not grab like the babbit bushing therefore causing it to spin, which happened a lot on earlier models that is why they were staked to prevent spinout. There were still some holdouts from the earlier years on the 1987, valve body (still early style). We have found along with some other shops, that the 1987's had some problems when installing the Performance Trans-Go Shift kit (not the regular Shift kit). So we use 1988 & later cores to do all performance builds with.
Hope This Helps!!!

 

What is wrong with the 84 700R4's? I have one and it shifts great. You can really feel the shifts, especially from 1st to 2nd.

 

Mine did too and i beat the S**t out of it
Then i put in a 355ci motor with about 370 horse and it blew second and overdrive in 22 miles thats my problem. Although it was fine with the 305

 

Will my 84 700R4 be ok with a 300 HP 355 TPI motor that I am putting in soon, with a 2200 RPM stall speed converter? I really don't want to buy a different tranny. Thanks.

[This message has been edited by CamaroX84 (edited April 13, 2001).]

 

So not all 87 700-R4's got the upgrades, but u can tell which 1's have them and which don't by what the other dude said, and u use the 88- because u are sure they all have them, correct??

Were these 87's the 1's with or without the upgrades, and what exactly is the difference between the Trans-Go Shift kit and the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit?? Thanks!!



[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 14, 2001).]

 

if your gonna built a trans get onwe built by a good shop. It will be the toughest trans and your feal it shift everytime.

------------------
91 camaro RS
- 305 TBI
Mods: Performer TBI intake, 1" TBI spacer, K+N, jet fan switch ,160 thermo,Accel control module, Jet Stage 2 chip, edelbrock TES headers, Compleate 3" Flowmaster exhaust, Edelbrock springs, KYB struts and shocks, 700R4 built by TSI, SLP tq converter, b+m trans cooler
Soon to come .SLP Posi 323,Spohn LCA's and panhard bar,Ascd ram air hood, Z28 spoiler and grille,white guage faces.

 

mine was fine until i put in my 355 although its around 350 horse. The 305 only came with 165 horse which is a big difference

------------------
84 Z28
355 chevy 9.5-1 about 350 horse. many mods

 

So not all 87 700-R4's got the upgrades, but u can tell which 1's have them and which don't by what the other dude said, and u use the 88- because u are sure they all have them, correct??

Were these 87's the 1's with or without the upgrades, and what exactly is the difference between the Trans-Go Shift kit and the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit?? Thanks!!

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 14, 2001).]

 

?????????????????????

 

PBAutomatics????

 

The Trans-Go Shift kit (SySko) addresses the inherent problems the 700R4 had. This kit could be modified to a Heavy Duty application easily. The Trans-Go Performance Shift kit (1) lets the transmisson hold any gear to any rpm, (2) allows the 3-2 kickdown (forced or manual) shift to be much faster & cleaner (no band & clutch tieup) than the stock setup, (3) gives you new springs for the forward drum that keeps the 3-4 clutches from accidentally applying themselves (due to centrifuge)in the top of first or second gear, (4) a new 3-2 valve that allows quick bleedoff of 3rd gear oil when making a 3-2 (forced or manual) downshift, (5) firmer shifts, (6) increased torque capacity, etc.
Hope This Helps!!!

 

Thanks!! I have 2 questions though.

How is it to do, and how to install a Trans Go shift kit yourself??

How is it to do, and how to replace a front seal yourself?? Thanks!!


------------------
Looking For:

87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI
The car I want.

84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
Another car that would be OK to own while I still look for the IROC-Z!!



[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 28, 2001).]

 

BTTT since I replied so fast.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 28, 2001).]

 

Any trans that says MD8 on the side is a 4L60. They started in 91. These are in my humble opinion, the best platform to start with. The electronic trans will say M30 on the side.

As for shift kits, the Transgo SK700 is the one you can do without pulling the trans.

If you go with the 700-2-3, to get the most out of the kit you will have to pull the trans apart. There is some drilling on the valve body,and the front pump. Do not take the pump apart unless you have a very clean area and compressed air to remove any lint when you put it back together or it will leak.

To do the 3/4 clutch spring mods you will have to take the input housing apart. For this you will need new seals and the seal installers ($4.00 plastic cups) so you don't ruin the new seals. If you are going down that far you might as well put the upgraded 3/4 clutch pack in it. You must also have a decent set of tools to work with.

You can skip the pump drainback mod if you want. If you plan on turning the motor over 5000 rpm on a daily basis, the 3/4 springs are a MUST.

If anybody out here decides to do their own trans work, take a few days to do it and don't be afraid to ask questions. There are a lot of people out here to answere any questions you have. After all that is what hot rodding is about.

 

Cool post N4S!! I will probably be asking lots of questions when I get this car.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited April 29, 2001).]

 

If you are going into the Input Drum to replace the springs I would Highly recommend getting the 4L60E 3-4 Apply Package which uses the .106" steels. I prefer the Borag Warner paper frictions over the High Energy but they will work fine and you can buy it as a package from GM. For the minute it takes I would still drill the drain back in the stator(the only place the factory hasn't thought to open up).

 

If you are replacing the front seal, the cause might be the bushing to torque converter hub clearence is on the loose side. To replace the seal you will have to take out the transmission. Since you are this far, you might as well take the front pump out & install the new teflon bushing in the front pump along with the seal. Since you are this far, you might as well take out the forward drum & install the Trans-Go CS-700 spring set in the drum, along with doing the 3-4 clutch update by using the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches (8 clutches), and the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band. If you do not have the Corvette servo,? install it now. One last important thing is install the Viton input/output shaft seal (used in 1992's & later) this guarantees oil to the rear planet. There are many other things taht you can d, but these are the most important.
Glad Too Help!!!

 

need4speed, I have an 1989 Iroc-Z and in the RPO codes it says MD8: Transmission, Auto 4 spd, THM 700R4.......so I think your post is a little missleading or I have a 90+ tranny in my '89??????????

 

I just pulled a 700/4L60 out of a 90 RS and it had the MD8 molded into the side of the trans case.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

[This message has been edited by Jim85IROC (edited April 30, 2001).]

 

I also have a ? about this MD8 deal, I have
a 87 IROC and my RPO codes list MD8, trans.
auto 4spd. THM 700R4, but I have not looked
on my trans. itself to see if it is also
stamped on it, or since the RPO says this
would it be the same. just curious.


------------------
TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 10 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.

[This message has been edited by MY87ROC (edited April 29, 2001).]

 

4L60 = 700R4
In 94 the trannys in fbodys became computer cotrolled, these are 4L60E

[This message has been edited by Keith5 (edited April 29, 2001).]

 

Well it would not be the first time GM's books do not match the actual data.

According to my 1991 Caprice manual, it says
MD8 casting designates a 4l60 trans. On the trans id stamp on the passenger side, you should have a number that starts 1YDM187A

1= model year (1=1991)
YD = model
M = Hydra-Matic 4l60
187 = Julian date built (day of the year)
A = shift built (a,b= first. c,h=second

So seeing as 1=1991, one would assume that this model of trans started in 1991. Assuming 1/2 year transitions it would still be safe to say an MD8 trans is the latest model (excluding the electronic version).

I don't write the books, so don't get mad at me if it turns out to be false!!!
I can only go by whats in the book, and what is on the trans. If its not true, well then I guess we are all f&$#%.

 

Hey Transfixleo I was wondering. Do you prefer the Alto,Raybestos, or Borg Warner clutches. In the 3-4 pack there seems to be 2 trains of thought. One was more frictions with thin steels to distribute the energy, and same frictions with thicker steels. Gm did a test and found the thicker steels did better.
I was wondering what people were seeing out in the real world. I have not used the thicker steel approach, but I have never had any heat problems with the thinner steel setup.

Like you I prefer the paper clutches for street use. They are not as harsh. But then if you are putting 450-500 hp to the trans, I don't think harsh is an issue.

 

Would a 700 r4 with a large 27(i think) spline input shaft a TransGo shift kit (SySko)vette survo, 9 clutchs, and 10 vein pump stand up to 460 ft lbs torque

 

MD8 = 4L60 = 4L60E = TH700R4.

M30 = ???????????????????????

4L60 = TH700R4.
4L60E = TH700R4, electronically controlled.

These trannies are virtually all the same transmissions. They obviously have more updates done to them the newer they are.

I recommend you do not dive into a transmission rebuild unless you have a lot of time to get it done, are fairly intelligent, and have ALL of the tools you will need. Transmission rebuilding is not for the Shade-tree-er.

Replacing the front pump seal is fairly simple - just drop the trans, pull the converter, swap seal out, reinstall converter, restab trans. It may be a temporary fix though.

------------------
Matt

1987 GTA L98 MD8 GW6

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 70Mph"

 

For many years I was in the more clutches are better camp. All things being equal, the more clutches, the more holding power. I have used the Alto 9 pack in 700's along with the Alto pack for A4LD's and AOD's and have had no problem. Where I have a problem is the suppliers started sending Allomatic ( a subsidiary of Raybestos) in place of the Alto's. I do not consider tham the same. Since we were seeing trannies come in with the thick steels (4L60E) that quite often, the frictions were fine, my thinking started to change. I've watched lot's of trannies with fewer frictions but more/thicker steels and am under the opinion now that, as long as there isn't a problem with the CONTROL of those clutches, I prefer using the thick steel setup, even for HP/HD use. IF you don't fix the CAUSES of clutch slip, it doesn't matter how many clutches are in there.
As to what brand of clutches, I have had the best succes with Borg Warner. Remember, I do all sorts of trannies in all sorts of use. Quite often, a passenger vehicle can be abused more than most 1/4 mile at a time cars.



[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited April 30, 2001).]

 

I've had my '86 700r4 on the floor, and MD8's stamped right into the bellhousing...


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Ok I have no idea what year my tranny is. I bought the car of of some Pep Boys employee/fanatic who knew absolutly nothing about the car (Obvously or she would have never let Pep Boys work on it) She got a rebulit tranny from a local shop about 2 years ago and I killed it during some "daily" :razz: driving. That was within 15k of it being replaced. I just dropped the tranny today and it had MD8 on the side, but my question is ... What are the wires on the top side of the trans on the passanger side for? The reason I ask is because all of them seem to somehow have shorted in the exact same spot although there are three wires!

------------------
You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

When I did my Trans-go shift kit, I read that the the 1st type valve bodies were preferred in heavy-duty applications.

I got that from the ALLDATA repair manual (on CD).

Joe


------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
Trans-go shift kit

 

Ok, i know this thread is dead and old but when doing a search i need info!!!

I currently have an 88 700R4 Freshly rebuilt with basically stock replacement parts. I would like to build a motor to about 450hp (383 very soon) I would like the tranny to hold the power... I have the oppurtunity to buy a 4L60E tranny brand new still in the crate for $500... What are my options, i would really like to not spend any money obviously but what needs to get done needs to get done. Which would be the cheapest yet most effective alternative?? Running my fresh tranny, Buy the 4L60E (what were these rated at?) Build my tranny up again (how much would this cost?) T56 swap??? I got myself excited that i was able to afford to build a 383 but am now down again since i cant really run with it cause of my tranny. (and rear but that is a different ballgame.)