Hey, I have a quick question for you guys. I couldn't find a good answer by searching, so I decided to make a new post.
First of all, I have a 1992 Camaro 3.1L with a non-posi rear.
I need to get my car ready for inspection and there are a few things I need. I have most of it ready, except the rear axle seals need to be replaced, as do the wheel cylinders. I just wanted to know if I can do the job with mostly basic tools and what would be the best way to do it?
I also read that if I'm replacing the axle seals, I need to change the bearings as well?
First of all, I have a 1992 Camaro 3.1L with a non-posi rear.
I need to get my car ready for inspection and there are a few things I need. I have most of it ready, except the rear axle seals need to be replaced, as do the wheel cylinders. I just wanted to know if I can do the job with mostly basic tools and what would be the best way to do it?
I also read that if I'm replacing the axle seals, I need to change the bearings as well?
When your seals are starting to leak its a sure sign the bearings are starting to go as well. It doenst make sense to go in there and only replace the seals. Im assuming you have a 10 bolt? Having never done one i will let another board member chim in on whats involved but plan on replacing bearings as well. To get the axles out you will need to remove the diff cover and take the C clips out. After that they "should" slide out and the bearing should be visable in the axle tubes.
Oh ok.. Any idea how much the new bearings will cost? And will I need any special tools for this job?
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
Plan to spend in the neighborhood of 40 dollars total (20 per side) for the bearings. Seals will be in the neighborhood of 30 total i believe (thats what it was for my 9 bolt so just guessing). Also do not get any other bearing other than Timken. They are american made and will last just as long if not longer than originals. Most cheaper bearings on the market today are made in japan or china and will not last very long.
Supreme Member
If the bearings are going bad then the axles will need to be replaced too. The bearings run directly on the axles and wear with the bearings.
You will have to remove the cover, which will drain the oil, and remove the retaining bolt that holds the cross shaft in place. Remove the shaft and push in on the axles (after you have removed the wheels and brakes). This will allow the c clips to be removed from the ends of the axles. Then the axles will come out. Pry the seals out and then you can remove the bearings. You will need a tool for this. The tool can be borrowed from Auto Zone or other parts stores. Drive in the new bearings. Before installing the new seals smear a thin coat of RTV sealant around the inside of the housing end. Then drive the seals in. Squirt gear oil into the bearings and smear some around the lip of the seal. Install the axles and reverse the rest of the disassembly.
You will have to remove the cover, which will drain the oil, and remove the retaining bolt that holds the cross shaft in place. Remove the shaft and push in on the axles (after you have removed the wheels and brakes). This will allow the c clips to be removed from the ends of the axles. Then the axles will come out. Pry the seals out and then you can remove the bearings. You will need a tool for this. The tool can be borrowed from Auto Zone or other parts stores. Drive in the new bearings. Before installing the new seals smear a thin coat of RTV sealant around the inside of the housing end. Then drive the seals in. Squirt gear oil into the bearings and smear some around the lip of the seal. Install the axles and reverse the rest of the disassembly.
$40 isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be... Ok, so I think I have it figured out now, just going to buy a new Haynes manual since I lost my other one somewhere...
The wheel cylinders seems like an easy job, as does the turn signal cancel spring. Then I just have to patch up a small rust hole in the driver side floor board and it should be ready for inspection. Already passed emissions amazingly, so that's taken care of.
Is there anything I should watch out for while doing the axle seals, wheel cylinders, and brake shoes?
The wheel cylinders seems like an easy job, as does the turn signal cancel spring. Then I just have to patch up a small rust hole in the driver side floor board and it should be ready for inspection. Already passed emissions amazingly, so that's taken care of.
Is there anything I should watch out for while doing the axle seals, wheel cylinders, and brake shoes?
Supreme Member
I would suggest the factory repair manual over the haines, ... .
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ing-axles.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ing-axles.html
Thanks for the link. I didn't find that post when I searched...


Senior Member
U can have the axle tube welded to the pot. This is not an uncommon problem. Actually, on the '72 Buick GS that i owned,
I cleaned the area about the leak and applied Permatex Ultra Black & that sealed the leak.
I cleaned the area about the leak and applied Permatex Ultra Black & that sealed the leak.
