I just finished installing my rebuilt 700r4 with a new 2400 stall TC, and I have a few issues...

1. The guy I bought it from said he's 90% sure he had a manual valve body put in it when rebuilt over a year ago. It won't downshift at all, I have to shift into 1st or 2nd. It also dies sometimes in drive at stops - it goes away when idling in 1st.

2. The takeoffs are slooooow, my old dying tranny would fry the tires, this one bogs to 20MPH or so. Its got a 2400 stall TC!! I've got 3.08 gears now, could that be the problem - not enough gear? However, 2nd and 3rd gear at full throttle have MUCH more power.

3. It shifts firmer than the old one, but not the hard tire chirping/burning shifts I expected.

4. The fluid is about 1 quart too high - would this cause any problems?

I've checked all the other obvious stuff like the TV cable and all, but is there anything else? It's only got 10 miles on it since the install, and I'm freaking out! Help me however you can, and sorry for the length.

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1985 Z28, Jasper Class 1 350, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dual snorkel air cleaner, K&N, Edelbrock headers, Catco 3" cat, Hooker 3" cat-back, Richmond 3.73's, built 700r4 w/Darrell Young 2400 stall TC, JET Stage 2 chip, Hypertech coil, Lakewood LCA's, Powertrax locker, SSM subframes, Centerline Auto Drag's

[This message has been edited by Marc 85Z28 (edited June 22, 2001).]

 

a manual valve body means you have to select the appropriate gear manually at all times. in other words, it stalls in drive (3rd) at a light just like a manual trans would if you tried to take off in 3rd.

It's basically a clutchless manual transmission. e.i.
When you come to a stop, drop it into first. Fry them, then go through each gear at the appropriate times. If you slow for a turn, you'll have to drop a gear or it'll bog.

If you don't like that, just find someone who wants it set up like that and swap valve bodies, so you can have full automatic again.

At least that's what it sounds like from what you describe. Sounds like it's working like it's supposed to.

 

Full manual is 'full manual'. You have to shift gears manually. Get that extra quart of fluid out of it--that's not at all good on it. It will feel different will the higher stall. At lower rpms, it will slip alot. I hope it's a lock-up converter, since you have high gears--if you don't that TC will slip all the time down the highway.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

It stalls in 1st and 2nd gear also when stopped, and yes, it is a lockup TC.

Also, overdrive does not work.

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1985 Z28, Jasper Class 1 350, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dual snorkel air cleaner, K&N, Edelbrock headers, Catco 3" cat, Hooker 3" cat-back, Richmond 3.73's, built 700r4 w/Darrell Young 2400 stall TC, JET Stage 2 chip, Hypertech coil, Lakewood LCA's, Powertrax locker, SSM subframes, Centerline Auto Drag's

[This message has been edited by Marc 85Z28 (edited June 23, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Marc 85Z28 (edited June 23, 2001).]

 

The idle problem is probably unrelated to the tranny. No OD, something is broken.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Sounds like the converter clutch maybe at fault and locking up. Those converter clutches have damper springs in them just like a regular manual trans clutch, they break when they get old and or run hard, especially if someone was locking it up in second (it shouldn't lock up in any lower gear) and letting it shift hard putting further stress on the converter.
In addition to the valve body the governor may need to be changed if you decide to go back to an automatic v body.

 

Which is it?

You never mentioned that.

Unplug the lockup connector to see if it's an electrical problem. If it still locks up, you may have to replace the solonoid. If it still locks up, the converter might be at fault.

Also, make sure it's not a post-87 700r4 with a pre-87 converter.

 

Jza - at first it idled in 1st, but then not at all

Why would pre or post 87 make a difference, the only difference in non-electronic 700r4s was the changeover from 27 to 30 splines in 84, not 87 like you might be thinking. Besides, the converter wouldn't slip onto a differently splined input shaft...

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1985 Z28, Jasper Class 1 350, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dual snorkel air cleaner, K&N, Edelbrock headers, Catco 3" cat, Hooker 3" cat-back, Richmond 3.73's, built 700r4 w/Darrell Young 2400 stall TC, JET Stage 2 chip, Hypertech coil, Lakewood LCA's, Powertrax locker, SSM subframes, Centerline Auto Drag's