I've read the FAQ, and I've done the search a bunch of times on the 700 to T5 swap. Everybody says the same thing: Pedals are the hardest part. Why? Everybody said it's hard, but nobody really said why. I want to know exactly what I'm getting into before I start this swap. I hate surprises. I've got a 5 speed GTA and a 5 speed 2.8 camaro to run back to if I need to. What was the hard part? Getting the holes in the right place for the pedals? Mounting it? Any pointers would be a big help.

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The IROC Homepage
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It was the hardest part for me, but only because the rest is so easy. I would say the "hard part" of it would be getting the holes cut and lined up properly. Take your time and it is a fairly simple project. I spent 11 hours on my swap and drove it back out of the garage. I have large hands and that made the project of the pedals a little harder because you don't have a ton of room under the dash to work, but it still went smooth. Good luck....

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1991 Camaro RS/Z28,polished TPI, 355ci. Sportsman 11 heads, LT-4 Hot cam,Pete Jackson gear drive, on,and on, and on... 13.4 @ 105.98 with a 2:77 rear, no traction, no tuning, no practice. Car is pictured in Chevy High Performance magazine, June 2000 issue.
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1997 GMC Yukon, 4 wheel drive, leather, loaded, Gibson exhaust, K&N intake, Boston pro series speakers..... That's it so far.

1969 Camaro,12 point cage, total project right now, I am planning an LS1 - T56 - and a Vette independent rear. Pro Touring crowd, look out! 8^)

 

I would agree with the above statement.. If your mechanically inclined the swap is east.. I thought the pedals where one of the easiest thing of the job.. You just have to get the holes cut right and lined up, i had to massage the U bolt holes because i made them a tad bit small the first time but that was my biggest trouble, took a bit longer to make holes bigger and that was it... If you have all the parts you need to do the swap and take your time it is a breeze. I had to mess around getting the right torque arm bracket cause them GM parts book list like 7 diff models of them, plus it back orderd and came in 4 different pieces i got the front and the back part of the bracket seperate and the bolts seperate... That sucked.. I am going to make a list of part#'s soon.. I got almost everthing new except for trans and bellhousing, as far as the starter fitting the bellhousing it did.. My swap was on a 1984 TA and I didnt have to change the starter.. I know some people said they have had to get a diff starter to fit the t5 bellhousing.. Kevin

 

I thought that in changing my 83 from mechanical to hydraulic clutch, the pedals were the hardest part of the job... which is not to say that it was genuinely hard. The main PITA of all that is that you have to lay up under the dash with stuff falling down on you, working in tight cramped places, with little or no light and stuff in the way of everything. Other than that, there's nothing to it.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I feel better now.


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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Hey Jim, I thought it was easy. First thing I did was take out the drivers seat. This will give you more room and allow you to lay in a comfortable position while working.

Unbolt the steering column and let it hang - you'll need a long extension but you'll be able to get to all the bolts for the pedal bracket.

On my car the template for the clutch master cylinder was outlined in the factory carpet padding, so I used it as a guide.

You shouldn't have any problems putting the pedals in.

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Jed
89 Formula 350

[This message has been edited by Jed (edited August 22, 2001).]

 

Yes I agree with the comments made so far. I pulled out the brake booster to make installing the clutch master cylinder easier. Some chose to disconnect the steering column at the rag joint and do it that way. Extensions, universal joints, elbows in a confined space while upside down with the seat hold down studs piercing my back, bring back memories. I used a Dremel to cut the hole for the clutch m.s. from the firewall side (I had a template I made from another car). But a hole saw would probably be easier and a lot neater than the multi-drilled holes method others have hacked theirs in with. Also don't forget to extend the heavy gage purple wire and run it from the NSS to the clutch. Also rerouting the black wire with a white stripe (which is ground for the hatch release) from the auto shifter to the parking brake. Good luck with the swap. You will definitely be pleased with the results. 8^)

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions

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I really dont know why people say its so hard to do. It took me about 2-3 hours total to get them in for my T56 swap. The only hard part is putting the 4 nuts on (that go onto the the brake booster studs) . I had to use a 24" extension with a wobble socket to get on 1 or 2 of them. Oh yeah, I also had to drop the steering column a few inches. Suprisingly the pedal assembly (brake/clutch pedals) bolted right up. Just had to drill 2 holes for the clutch master cylinder, and there was already a threaded hole in underside of the dash for the upper part of the pedal bracket.

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89' pearl blue Camaro Iroc-Z
355/6-spd
Not stock...
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97' black Pontiac Trans Am
LT1, A4, free mods, CAI,
HPP3+, Flowmaster catback, 3.42's.
100hp Nitrous.

 

ok, same with jim, im becoming less fearful of doing this swap....
i figured doing it this winter in my garage..
its a 91 pont firebird,
i heard that theres a kit you can use that so that you dont have to hack your floor, and does anyone have a picture of this clutch cylinder?
what does it do? im baffled.

is it inside or out....?


Thanx guys. GREAT post..

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91 FireBird 305 V-8
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