Convertor Removal from Seized Engine
Convertor Removal from Seized Engine
I have a 92 TC bolted to a seized engine. The engine is out of the car. I can't get the engine to turn at all as it has been seized for a long time...any suggestions?? I'm thinking about flipping the engine over and taking the rod and main bolts off and trying to get the crankshaft out with the flexplate and convertor attached but it's a 92 with the one piece rear main seal. I read on here that someone had cut the flexplate with a hacksaw...seems like that might be difficult and I don't have a sawzall. HELP
Thanks in advance
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
Thanks in advance
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
i'd think with a little effort and cutting it where you can you ought to be able to break the flex plate off the crank. be easier then dropping the pan and unbolting rods.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
In addition to the above post, you will not be able to remove the crank from a seized engine, if it won't turn over you won't be able to get to all the rod nuts.
IMO the best thing would be to separate the engine and trans with the converter bolted to the flex plate, then cut the bolt heads off with a torch to save the flex plate. Still going to be tough to get the engine apart afterwards if you plan to fix it.
IMO the best thing would be to separate the engine and trans with the converter bolted to the flex plate, then cut the bolt heads off with a torch to save the flex plate. Still going to be tough to get the engine apart afterwards if you plan to fix it.
Just unbolt the tranmission, pull straight back, now take the torque converter off. It will make a mess as the fluid leaves the TC. Have a drain pan to put under the TC immediately to catch majority of the fluid. This is the easiest way.
Got it!! I was able to get to 2 of the bolts down low...I then pulled the convertor from the bottom until the button in the middle came loose from the flexplate, bending the flexplate at the last bolt...I then twisted the convertor around until it was vertical..then bent it down at a 90¢ª angle to the flexplate,tearing the flexplate from the ring gear...then I drove a ball joint separator into the slot in the flexplate around the bolt head and peeled the flexplate back enough to get some air on the bolt. Sounds like alot of work but it only took about 10 mins after I got started.
Thanks everyone for all your help.
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
Thanks everyone for all your help.
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
I was just wondering if I could just jam something between the flexplate and block and break the flexplate off? I have the same prob as Blown_n... but unfortunately I can only get to 1 of the three bolts. Any ideas on this?
Will I be able to turn the flexplate once I take the heads off?
Will I be able to turn the flexplate once I take the heads off?
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The flexplate bends/breaks fairly easy...the gear is the toughest part...use a crowbar or other leverage device to mangle it till you can break the convertor free...I was gonna cut it off with a torch but someone left me an empty bottle..once you get past the gear it's a piece of cake. I just beat the H#$% out of it with a small sledge and a ball joint tool...worked great. An impact chisel whould have worked great too!!
Good Luck
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
Good Luck
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There is no substitution for cubic inches!
As far as turning the crank after removing the heads...that will all depend on where it is seized. If it's been a while the rings might be rusted to the cylinder walls pretty bad. If there is alot of rust...fill each cylinder all the way with Marvel Mystery Oil...then let it sit for a couple of days. After letting it soak in MMO...work the crank back and forth a bit and it should loosen up...then you can start disassembly.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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